Ring Mountain Rock Climbing
Topping out on eastern face of turtle rock
Ring Mountain is a scenic collection of boulders in the Marin Headlands, ranging from about 20 to 50 feet in height. They offer a variety of problems and top roped climbing on some interesting rock.
No useful bolts or anchors are present on the rocks. Bring long slings (~40') and nuts to take care of your anchor needs. The rock is friendly on the hands; it's good for sticking small holds. Feet tend to be a bit more slippery. The rock at Turtle Rock is schist and somewhat reminiscent Rumney, NH.
Access is free and the area is open from sunrise to sunset.
To get there, exit at Paradise Drive from the 101 freeway a few exits south from where it meets the 580.
At the off ramps, drive a short distance east, towards the Bay. On Google Maps this shows as Tamalpais Drive.
Paradise Road is the very first possible right hand turn, and comes before the traffic light.
Follow Paradise Drive as it winds south and east for around 2 miles.
Turn right onto Taylor Road, and follow it to its end.
Park your vehicle here.
At the parking lot there are two paved paths leading into the hills. Walking uphill and to the left will bring you to Split Rock. Walking uphill and to the right will bring you to Turtle Rock.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Ring Mountain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ring Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ring Mountain:
Featured Route For Ring Mountain
Harmony V2 5+ California
: San Francisco Bay Area
: ... : Turtle Rock
Begin at the South Eastern extreme of Turtle. There is a flake that juts out and points towards Angel Island at the base. There are two small moons right next to each other right above this flake. Use these moons as the starting hand holds, and use the flake as the starting foot hold. Start traversing counterclockwise (the next move should be to a downwards horn underneath an outcropping out the rock. Traverse until you come to a cavity in the rock. This should be at the other side of the out...[more] Browse More Classics in California
Most of the routes at split rock are pretty easy, ...
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 4, 2004
Note that the directions above are if you are coming from the north on 101. From the south turn right at the end of the exit ramp and then follow the directions above. At the parking lot there are two paved paths leading into the hills. Walking uphill and to the left will bring you to split rock. Walking uphill and to the right will bring you to turtle rock.
The rock at Turtle Rock is schist and reminds a little of Rumney, NH.
By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
May 25, 2013
After you get done climbing out here be sure to hit up Lucinda's for some killer cheap healthy Mexican food. The tamales and the carnitas are to die for.
By Beckie Menten
May 18, 2016
Climbers be warned - there is typically a ton of broken glass on turtle rock, particularly on the south east side of the rock. Not a great place to hang out barefoot! Consider bringing a trash bag.
By noah dailey
Dec 9, 2016
Poison oak is present at turtle, avoid stepping/touching areas below the rock.