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Rincon - Center Route & R 
Rincon - L of Center Route 

Rincon Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.93432, -105.28962 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006


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Rincon is a small but amazing crag with probably the highest density of quality routes in all of Eldorado Canyon State Park. Rincon, for those unfamiliar with Spanish, means corner. Indeed, soaring corners abound here along with impeccable face climbs sprinkled with the occasional roof or crack system. While nearly all the climbs here are in the moderate range, certainly the 5.10s-5.11s are better represented. Spice flavors significant sections of rock here. This is not the cinnamon and nutmeg variety but of the "can't just take a whipper anywhere" flavor. Perhaps, it is even the birthplace for the Colorado headpointing subsociety. There is little for the low or high end climber here, but there is much to feed the soul of a large percentage of climbers. The views are soothing and extend to the continental divide. It's worth the walk.

For some of the routes, the first pitch may be climbed and rapped off, but you will miss much if you only do the first pitch (e.g.Rincon and Aerospace are 4-pitch climbs). Although there are a few bolted lines, you will likely need your rack and protection skills to succeed here.

Often on a nice weekend, for good reason, this wall along with the West Ridge can be very popular with climbers. Its southern exposure makes it particularly pleasant during cooler months although early days in summer months can be delightful as well. Early in the day, this crag does offer shade.

The list of first ascentionists at this crag are amazing. They include: Kor, Ament, Dalke, Hurley, Culp, Olevsky, Erickson, Duncan, Ferguson, Candelaria, R. Briggs, B. Briggs, D. Hunter, Piana, Webster, Coyne, Hare, Rossiter, Archer, Sharp, Hersey, Achey, P. Adams, Goddard, B. Miller, S. Levin, among others.

Particular images from this crag lie resilient in the memories of those who aspire to climb smoothly here. They include Skip Guerin barefoot climbing Wendego in Glenn Randall's Vertigo Games and images of Derek Hersey so smooth physically and mentally on Center Route. As Steve Levin notes, there is excellent footage of the late Cameron Tague working Evictor in P. Mortimer's Scary Faces

There are so many fine routes here! Some of the best include: Over and Out, 5.8; Emerald City, 5.9; Over the Hill, 5.10b; Aerial Book, 5.11a; Aerospace, 5.11b s; Rincon, 5.11a/b; Center Route, 5.11a/b; Climb of the Century, 5.11c s; Wendego, 5.12a/b s; Camoflauge, 5.12c; & Evictor, 5.12c/d s.

Descents include some rappels or downclimbing gullies left or right of the crag.

Note, in particular for the Over the Hill area, there are lots of loose rock sitting on ledges. Do not sit here without being aware of what is above you. Also, note there is some poison ivy here, especially below Rincon. This is not a dog or kid-friendly area.

Note, if anyone has particularly good base digital photos for rendering a topo for this page, please let me know.

Getting There 

The quickest way is to take the Rincon Cutoff Trail, which branches off of the Eldo Trail at the far end of the canyon. This trail cuts across a talus field near the base of the wall and deposits you around the Center Route. The wall may also be reached from the West Ridge--just continue hiking up the trail.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.3 miles from here

55 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Rincon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Rincon:
Over and Out   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   Rincon - L of Center Route
Emerald City   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   Rincon - L of Center Route
Five-Ten Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Rincon - Center Route & R
Faulty Logic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Rincon - L of Center Route
Over the Hill   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   Rincon - L of Center Route
Concentric   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Rincon - Center Route & R
Rincon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches   Rincon - Center Route & R
Point Break   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, Grade II   Rincon - Center Route & R
Aerial Book   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, TR, 2 pitches   Rincon - L of Center Route
Bat's Ass Dihedral   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Rincon - L of Center Route
Center Route   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches   Rincon - Center Route & R
Climb Of The Century   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   Rincon - L of Center Route
Aerospace   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   Rincon - L of Center Route
Spicoli   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Rincon - Center Route & R
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Rincon - Center Route & R
Wendego   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   Rincon - L of Center Route
Camouflage   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Rincon - Center Route & R
The Evictor   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   Rincon - L of Center Route
Fraid Line   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Rincon - L of Center Route
The Final Eviction (aka Freeline)   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Rincon - L of Center Route
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Rincon

Featured Route For Rincon
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming pitch 1.

Aerial Book 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13  Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Rincon - L of Center Route
On Rincon wall, this system is just to the right of Over The Hill and in a few ways is like it's harder twin. Like Over the Hill, this route shoots up a nice dihedral before splitting off right to a little splitter crack. There are some differences though - the crux isn't a few moves between good fixed pins.On Rincon wall there are several dihedrals on the left hand side. Aerial Book is the most obvious of these. Over The Hill is just to the left, and on the right the b...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Rincon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Caught in the last rays of the day.
Caught in the last rays of the day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan on Wendego, Rincon Wall.
Bob Horan on Wendego, Rincon Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Rincon and Cadillac crag from the hike up.
View of Rincon and Cadillac crag from the hike up.
Rock Climbing Photo: BH on FA of Rincon Overhang Block.
BH on FA of Rincon Overhang Block.

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