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Rincon - Center Route & R
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Rincon Light 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,505
Submitted By: Patrik on Jul 24, 2012

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  • Description 

    This route is for those of you who lead at 5.9 to 10a level and always wondered what's on top of the Rincon crag.

    P1: Same as the first pitch of Rincon (5.9+, G).

    P2: Same as the second pitch of Rincon (5.9-, G). Pitch 1 and 2 can be combined into one stellar long pitch.

    P3: From the two-pin and bolt anchor on Rincon, traverse left around the arete and then diagonal up left to join and complete the third pitch of Center Route to a large ledge with a house-sized boulder (5.8, PG). This pitch is graded 5.8 R in Levin's book, but evaluate the holds in the broken section, and you'll find plentiful of stable holds and good gear placements.

    P4: Step around the house-sized boulder and climb pitch 4 of Rincon (in Rossiter's guidebook). This is a separate pitch in Levin's book called Rincon Direct Finish. If you're shorter than 5'9", you might have trouble clipping the bolt (from standing on top of the boulder) mentioned in both guide books. Bring your small offset RPs for this pitch, otherwise you'll have a 25 foot runout at the top of the slab (5.9-, PG).
    With a 60m rope, you could head straight up a right-facing corner (about 5.6) after the slab. Otherwise, you need to head over to the belay ledge on the left and ...

    P5: From the belay tree, you have a couple of options: Walk off to the north (which brings you down to the walk-off for the Over the Hill area), rap the last pitch and then walk off to the north, or pick a line of your choice (5.4-5.6) to top out. I suggest not to top out as the walk-off from the top (going down to the base of Gambit) is quite loose and dirty.


    Some smallish RPs for pitch 4 (I was very happy to have a red offset DMM peenut here, which I think is about the same as a #2 or #3 offset RP).

    Comments on Rincon Light Add Comment
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    By Tom Waits
    Dec 31, 2016

    I do not recommend pitch 3. It's a traverse through a choss pile and is difficult to protect, but more important, there is a high likelihood of dislodging soccerball-sized rocks onto people at the base of the crag. You could kill someone.

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