BETA PHOTO: The ~1000 feet tall El Pison towering above the vi...
The tiny village of Mallos de Riglos sits at the base of 1000 foot conglomerate walls. At first look the walls in Riglos don't inspire alot of confidence as to the quality of the rock. But get on any well travelled route and you'll find most holds firmly cemented into the sandstone matrix.
Spanish climbers began attempting these walls in the late 1920's. The efforts of Alberto Rabadá and Ernesto Navarro in the 50's and 60's are legendary in Spain. Climbs took days and weeks on gear that now is unimaginable. Lucky for us mortals, the style has changed and bolt protected climbing allows the rest of us to climb these walls.
Hold size ranges from pebble to Volkswagen sized, with the average being a bit smaller than a volleyball. Grades from 5.9 to 5.12+. A full pitch of these "bolos" will leave you pumped and happy. However, many of the true cruxes come at the "panzas.". Overhanging, bouldery bulges. Mercifully, most of these can be aided if necessary.
Pitch length ranges from 40 feet to 1000 feet, with the multi pitch, bolted protected routes being the most popular (helmet highly recommended).
Riglos claims 300 sunny days per year. Winter, spring and fall are the most popular. Routes can get a bit busy on weekends.
Route style varies from sport bolted pitches to A5 adventure, horror shows. There's plenty to do though with a rack of draws and the occassional spare piece of gear. Many routes have crux bulges that can be aided and many parties seem to take this approach.
Plenty to do on rest/rain days, including hiking, bird watching, rafting the Rio Gallego, catching a day drunk at El Puro bar, touring the medieval castle in Loarre or day tripping to the Pyrennes.
Flying to Barcelona and renting a car will get you here in 3-3.5 hours.
The from train Zaragoza will get you here too. Once in Riglos, you don't need the car. Approaches are 5-30 minutes.
Accommodation: some camping is available. Staying in your van seems to be tolerated in the two large parking lots. Rooms are available in town. The El Puro bar rents rooms, has great food, incredibly friendly new owners and the best terrace for drinking an après climb beer.
Climbing Season For the Aragon area.
Weather station 31.7 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Riglos
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Riglos
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Riglos:
Chopper 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 5 pitches, 400'
Mosquitos 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 8 pitches, 800'
Featured Route For Riglos
Alberto Rabadá o Murciana 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Europe
: ... : Riglos
Located on Mallo Pisón, this is the closest big mallo to town. Murciana is the most popular route on this formation and for good reason. Originally done over 12 days in 1976 and dedicated to Spanish climbing hero, Alberto Rabadá. This has been retro bolted and is a classic sport climb. After a gear and bolt protected first pitch, several beautiful, steep and pumpy 5.10 bolt protected pitches lead to a big ledge. The 11+ (or 5.10/A0) crux pitch is next with hard bouldery moves to get over a bu...[more] Browse More Classics in International
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Oct 24, 2015
There has been a Refugio in town for at least a couple of years. I stayed there twice. It provides a room and food, if requested.
Next time I would recommend staying in the village of Ayerbe, just ten minutes away. The food choices are better and it is a short drive.
Try to time your trips to weekdays because it becomes a zoo on weekends. I was nearly hit by a baseball-sized stone a week ago as we started Moskitos. One of the climbers high on the route lobbed it off without warning.