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Rightist 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ??
Season: Fall -- Closed for Raptor Nesting from 1 April to 1 August
Page Views: 885
Submitted By: Rich F. on Oct 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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A bit past halfway on the first pitch.

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  • Description 

    Pitch 1: (110 feet, 5.10) This is the farthest route left on top of the boulders. The first move is a step across the gap and likely the crux of the climb -- good feet but no hands and hard to stay on the rock. I recommend leaning across and clipping the first bolt (see photo) before stepping across the gap for the climb. Although it is fairly sustained climbing, I thought there was another crux at about bolt four or five. For me, the first pitch of "Rightist" was the hardest of the six moderate routes on Tanner Dome proper. There are about 12 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

    Pitch 2: This goes up and slightly right of a large roof on big holds. Mostly 5.7 climbing, with one move of about 5.8 just past the steep right side of the roof. Above the roof, there is a place where it's a little runout, but you can place a cam (I think I used a #1) in a crack for protection. This pitch is about 80 feet and 8 bolts to the two-bolt anchor. It is mostly 5.7 climbing with maybe one 5.8 move.

    Descent: rappel the route in two rappels.

    Location 

    I highly recommend Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd edition" guidebook for a great description of the routes in the Tanner Dome area and throughout Colorado!!!

    This is on Tanner Dome. This is farthest route left on top of the boulders -- it starts with a step across about a 3 foot gap over the top of where you hike up. The climb goes straight up towards the right side of a big roof that sits above the anchors of the 1st pitch.

    Protection 

    About a dozen quickdraws. It may be helpful (but not required) to have one Camalot (about a size #1) for the top of the second pitch.


    Photos of Rightist Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the 2nd pitch of Rightist as it goes ri...
    BETA PHOTO: Looking up the 2nd pitch of Rightist as it goes ri...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Hoot at the 1st pitch anchors.
    Hoot at the 1st pitch anchors.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rightist, looking down from the 1st pitch anchors ...
    Rightist, looking down from the 1st pitch anchors ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the 1st bolt on Rightist before stepping ...
    BETA PHOTO: Clipping the 1st bolt on Rightist before stepping ...

    Comments on Rightist Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By S.Mckinna
    From: Cañon City, CO
    Dec 7, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    First pitch pumped out the calf muscles big time!
    By Keith W
    Sep 26, 2016
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Only did the first pitch, but it is a fun one. Pretty sustained most of the way, and some delicate footwork in a few areas. Right off the rock is probably the crux, but there I was another heads up move (for me) in between bolt 7 and 8. Great pitch!

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