REI Community
Sunset North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sense of Adventure T 
Alpha Omega T 
Ambidextrous T 
Another Fallen Angel T 
Arena, The T 
Banshee T 
Beginner's Route T 
Bill's Route T 
Broemel's Route T 
Broken Arrow T 
Bubble Bath T 
Cobb, The T 
Copperhead T 
Cornerstone T 
Crazy Eights T 
Devil Dog T 
Diamond, The T 
Fault Line T 
Flagstone T 
Flute Loops T 
Fool's Gold T 
Friday the Thirteenth T 
Ghost Dancers T 
Golden Ledges T 
Grand Cave, The T 
Heavy Hands T 
Hit the Slopers T 
Horribilus Maximus T 
In the Corner T 
Jams and Shams T 
Jefferson Airplane T 
Jennifer's World T 
Jungle Gym T 
Lefthand Crack T,TR 
Lichen to Lose It T 
Mineral Fright T 
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 
Nuclear Blue T 
One-Ten T 
Peace and Tranquility  T 
Prisoners of Zenda T 
Prow, The T 
R.J. Gold T 
Righthand Crack T,TR 
Rusty's Crack T 
S'More T 
Scare Voyager T 
Scream Wall T 
Scream Wall Direct T 
Slip Stream T 
Space Ranger T 
Spring Break T 
Stan's Crack T 
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 
Stitch in Time T 
Sunset Boulevard T 
Tantrum T 
Terrier in Trouble T 
Test Tube T 
Thin Pockets T 
Toothpick T 
Total Eclipse T 
Towers Chimney T 
Water in Motion T 
Womb, The T 

Righthand Crack 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,101
Submitted By: khowe on Sep 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kevin on Lefthand Crack. Righthand Crack pictured...


There are a few ways to begin this route, all of which lead to a very large ledge about 20' off the deck. Climb up another 10' or so until you hit a small roof. From here, you have the choice to begin climbing up the leftcrack or the rightcrack. If you decide the rightcrack, the move that positions you over the small roof and into the main crack is the crux. Once in the main crack, layback and head to the top!


Just left of The Diamond, one of the first routes you come to after descent from Sunset Rock proper. Route is situated in a corner with two slightly overhung and obvious crack systems that share anchors: Righthand Crack and Lefthand Crack.


Standard rack. Anchors w/rings. Can be accessed from top for top-roping.

Photos of Righthand Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Righthand Crack
Righthand Crack

Comments on Righthand Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Vecchio
From: St. Francisville, LA
Jul 8, 2014

Tried this out all day today. As a relatively new trad climber, this was a particularly versatile route with lots of awesome pro placements. Its located towards the end of the walls on the trail, so there was a lotta excitement built up when we finally got there. Nice bolted route on the left, excellent crack right up the center, and a face climb on the right. Great for toprope too. Needless to say, this playground easily took up hours of the day with all the fun, and I got pretty worn out at the end. Unfortunately, I had a little "wobbly" trouble cleaning the last of my placements, so for whoever's interested, there's a shiny new BD stopper (#9) to the left of the nose on the corner crack ;) great climb, rave weather! Lots of little black ants tho. Cheers!
By eli poss
From: Durango, Co
Nov 27, 2014

As with all cracks, grade is dependent on hand size and if you can get hand jams in here it's definitely 5.7. I, however, get bomber hand-jams in the "off-finger" and "tight hand "size cracks and hand cracks are often too wide for me to get jams in. so for me with was more like a 5.8/8+ because i either had to layback or use face holds where it was too big to jam. i found it to be of similar difficulty as more fun with dick and jane
By Mattisadude
May 22, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Spoiler alert: If you don't like gear beta, don't read any further.
Plenty of good passive gear (nuts) in the crack. Feels like I used #8-12 BD stoppers. First moves (off the ledge) protect well with a #1 and #2 camalot equalized w/ magic x. Would be classic if longer.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About