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Right Wing Wall
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Right Wing 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 1,290
Submitted By: percious on Mar 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Schug rockin out the top rope belay on the Right W...


In my opinion, the best 5.5 in the state. The gear is not straightforward however, so it might not be a great choice for a beginning leader. If you have a newer second, and are not afraid to run it out on thin placements, this is a great lead.


Small cams for near the top, balnuts are handy. one 3" cam for the start under the wing.

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By Kurtz
May 8, 2013

Yep, not for a beginning leader. The first piece is high and hard to place with an awkward stance. Much easier after that.
By Tom Sherman
From: Bristol, RI
Dec 14, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

I was told this has an R rating, maybe that's coming from a CT guide? The placement under the wing, for me, was a tipped out #2, the #3 wouldn't cut it. This was a flaring placement behind an obviously moving and broken block. Opting to skip this, my gear placements were: smallest cam I own - second smallest cam I own - .75 in a polished downward flaring moss terrarium - a double length runner sling of the horn above the wing (questionable to move on). This leads to runout R terrain with only a micronut placement between you and the finish. I backed down and was happy I could make that choice.

I tried to keep my gear description above, ambiguous, while still telling of what this climbs gear is actually like. Not for the beginning leader. Loose and suspect rock everywhere. My 5.6 Rating comes from the delicate 1-2 moves of fifth class ~10' up from the start. The rest is surely 5.5 or less.
By James F King
From: Avon, CT
Aug 27, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

I placed #4 and #3 under the wing but neither was what I would call bomber. I also slung the horn. When you get to the point above the wing where there is no gear, decent cams can be placed in a horizontal by moving slightly off route to the right. An R rating is appropriate.
By David Schlenz
Jul 23, 2017
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

Yep, I support the R consensus. Fortunately it's pretty straight forward 5.5 climbing. As James King mentioned, after you've worked up past the wing and are beginning to feel concerned about the lack of pro you've placed, slip a cam into that short horizontal you'll probably find to your right.

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