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Right Toilet Bowl Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 2,023
Submitted By: dlasley on Jan 28, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Pitch 2

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awesome easy trad. Great intro to Zion climbing for beginners of trad and multi pitch. Is in the shade till 2PM in the summer.

pitch 1) Climb a short ow off the ground into hands entering a chimney. Exit the chimney on hands up a 40 foot corner that pinches down toward the end. This pitch feels more 5.10 to me. 2 bolt belay.

pitch 2) Hands and big hands all the way. 2 bolt belay.

pitch 3) Climb a 6" ow for 10 feet (holds and feet make it forgiving). Continue up on a mixed bag of fingers, hands, and jugs to a large belay ledge. 2 bolt belay.

pitch 4) Stacked blocks in a chimney get you into a stemming section to surmount the overhanging slot. Pull over and scramble up low angle cracks to another 2 bolt belay.

pitch 5) Walk back into the corner, and down to gain a flared v slot with finger sized gear for protection. Once out of this continue up perfect hands to the top. 2 bolt belay.

The entire route can be rapped comfortably with a 70m rope, but realize you'll be down climbing the 30ft 4th class start if you only bring one cord. If uncomfortable with the down climb simply tag up your extra line to the first belay station, and leave it there. Then perform single rope raps until pitch 1 where you'll tie them together for the big down climb avoiding rap.

Gear: singles to .4 camalot. 2 each to #4 camalot, and a single #5 will protect the climb well.

Location 

From the bathrooms, walk along the paved path to the tourist board. Hop the fence and walk along the climbers trail leading you to the shaded side of the arete. Scramble up the rock through 2 trees to a ledge and the first pitch.

Protection 

Solid gear from beginning to end. Bolted belay stations. Rapped all the way home with a 70m


Photos of Right Toilet Bowl Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The 4th pitch blocks slot.
The 4th pitch blocks slot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of the route.
Pitch 1 of the route.

Comments on Right Toilet Bowl Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Oct 6, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

the supplement the beta above.

pitch 1) Climb a short ow off the ground into hands entering a chimney. Exit the chimney on hands up a 40 foot corner that pinches down toward the end. 2 bolt belay.

pitch 2) Hands and big hands all the way. 2 bolt belay.

pitch 3) Climb a 6" ow for 10 feet (holds and feet make it forgiving). Continue up on a mixed bag of fingers, hands, and jugs to a large belay ledge. 2 bolt belay.

pitch 4) Stacked blocks in a chimney get you into a stemming section to surmount the overhanging slot. Pull over and scramble up low angle cracks to another 2 bolt belay.

pitch 5) Walk back into the corner, and down to gain a flared v slot with finger sized gear for protection. Once out of this continue up perfect hands to the top. 2 bolt belay.

The entire route can be rapped comfortably with a 70m rope, but realize you'll be down climbing the 30ft 4th class start if you only bring one cord. If uncomfortable with the down climb simply tag up your extra line to the first belay station, and leave it there. Then perform single rope raps until pitch 1 where you'll tie them together for the big down climb avoiding rap.

Gear: singles to .4 camalot. 2 each to #4 camalot, and a single #5 will protect the climb well.
By dlasley
Nov 6, 2014

thanks for the comment. I just put it up in the beta section for easy viewing. thanks again. cheers
By Ray Hellinger
From: Gunnison, CO
Apr 22, 2015

This climb is much better than it looks from the ground. Highly recommended. Gear recommendation is good here. Don't pay attention to the "optional" 5" piece noted in the guidebook.....you will want it for the P3 OW or you risk a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. I would give this a solid 5.10 rating on P1.
By B Roth
From: st george, ut
Aug 11, 2015

I should have added this sooner when I had a fresher memory. There is a two pitch extension to this route after you finish pitch five, probably goes at around 10c/d. It's the obvious hand crack that you can see as you hang out on the large sloping slab waiting for your partner to finish.

The first pitch is an excellent handcrack, mostly 1's and 2's as I recall however it was a bit sandy. If it were done more it would probably be nice and clean. It ends at an awkward sloping ledge; there aren't any anchors so you'll need to build one, plan on hand sized pieces.

The second pitch is a little strange and the crux is a fist crack sized bulge to a sandy ledge. You can for sure french free with a couple of #3 camalots. After that it's pretty mild to the top. There is a two bolt anchor with webbing at the top that is in weird location close to the edge of the cliff. It's been a few years so bring some extra webbing just in case (It's zion so you should be in the habit anyways).

I'm not sure how far it is back down from here. I did it with a party of three so we already had two 60's and I believe we rapped with those. As for extra gear we just used what we already had for the rest of the route. I think if you want to attempt it maybe bring a couple hand / finger sized pieces just to be on the comfortable side since you'll need to build a belay.

Sorry for the sparse beta but I think any beta is better than none. If you're a confident 5.11 trad climber you shouldn't have any issue with the additional pitches. I last did this extension around 2013.
By Marlene Machemy
From: Squamish
May 26, 2016

Great climb with incredible view at the top! I have small hands and pitch 2 felt more like a 10-. Definitely appreciated having two #4s and one #5 for pitch 2. Pitch 4 has some stacked blocks right at the start before the stemming section. They look very solid and it seems like everybody is using them but the bottom one moves quite a bit so be extra careful there.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 29, 2016

Really fun route. Lots of chimneying, but they are all very well protected and not too hard. I agree with the comment above that the first pitch seems 5.10- to me. The short offwidth on P3 is no big deal, and in fact, I thought the opening moves on P1 to be harder :)

Do not bring a pack on this route or you'll be cursing.

I was happy to have 2 x #4 camalot and the #5 camalot. I also had an extra #3 and #3.5 and found places to use them on P2, but they are by no means required.

My gear recommendation: doubles #0.4-#4 + #5 camalot. A few medium to large offset nuts. I did place a small yellow mastercam as well.

Really cool summit plateau.

Rap is setup very well for clean pulls and a fast descent. Beefy ASCA bolts. My wife was perfectly happy not to downclimb the 5th class approach so we left a tag line atop P1 and rapped to the ground with double ropes.

Shady until 2pm or so.
By Eric Rydzo
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 12, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a really fun, relatively easy, and well protected multi pitch route with a gorgeous view from the top of pitch 5. Pitches 1-5 have solid anchors and comfortable belay ledges. Great climb for beginner Zion leaders. BE CAREFUL IF YOU ARE CLIMBING TO THE TRUE SUMMIT (pitches 6 & 7) as there is some loose rock. Last two pitches felt like 10b/c, first five pitches felt like 10-.

Notes on the climb:
-As Andy stated above, I would have liked to have some extra #3 and #4 cams for the second pitch. It is a wide crack and would have helped if we brought doubles (or even triples of #3) for that pitch.
-Pitches #6 and #7... Wow. We were underwhelmed by how short and mellow pitches 1 - 5 were, yet when we decided to climb to the true summit of pitch 7 (we linked these two pitches and climbed it with a 70) it felt full value because the rock quality was sketchy at times. The crux definitely felt like an ow section before the top of pitch 7 that includes a pull through a spindly plant. I did a belly flop on this plant and it sucked.

Notes on the descent:
-We replaced the aging slings at the very top of pitch 7. Those bolts are looking very old and I would caution anyone rapping off of the very top of this pillar to inspect the bolts before doing so...otherwise you are in for one hell of a down climb.
-A 70m rope will reach the ground (barely) from the 2nd pitch if you toss the rope to the left crevice of the two trees
-Bring a 70m if you climb to pitch 7 as you might not want to rappel from pitch 6...

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