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South Summit Wall
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Be Here Now T 
Center Thumb T 
Da Black and Gold T 
Expanding Man T 
Free Mexican Air Force T 
Gardner's Delight , The T 
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Right Thumb T 
Taivallista T 

Right Thumb 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tom Spencer, Bob Irvine, Ben Peterson 1959
Page Views: 814
Submitted By: philfell on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Start in the second dihedrial right on the Center Thumb. Follow off-widths/chimneys to the top of the Thumb. The pitches stay consistant most of the way through the climb, with plenty of ledges along the way to belay at. To me it felt way harder than 5.7. When I think of 5.7 chimney I think of Cresent Crack or Ellesworth/McQuarrie, this climb felt more like four pitches of the Lowe Blow on the Egg. On every pitch I placed a 3, 4, 4.5, and 5 camalot and I wish I had more. Occasonially I found some smaller gear, but most of the small placements weren't that good because of loose flakes or poor rock. Leave anything smaller than .5 at home and go heavey on the big stuff.

Be very carefull of loose rock, because there is a ton of it. We sent down plenty of rocks big enough to take you out, and pulling onto ledges was very scary because of all the loose stuff. I wouldn't recommend this route, there are far better routes up there. Don't be fooled by the 5.7 rating this is a serious route due to no fixed gear (except for an old soft iron ring that was about to fall out) long physical off-width sections and huge amounts of loose rocks.


All the big stuff you can carry.

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