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Right Side 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: chipmunk
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 12, 2012

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This is an obvious line on the right side of Pulpit Rock that climbs better than it looks. Part of it may be new, but it will likely be hard to determine. The name is obviously not the real name, so anyone with more information, please let me know & I'll update it.

P1. There are a few possible starts here, but we started at the base of a slab below a bulge overlap. Meander up easy terrain to a ledge. Place pro. Move up to an awkward bulge where a yellow Alien fits in the crack over the lip. You can try this awkward mantel, but we moved left and scampered over a gritty bulge (crux). Note, there is a decent-sized block that appears unattached, but you don't need to pull on it. Move up through a groove to a ledge and belay. 100', 8+.

P2. Move up to a crack, make a brief left traverse to good buckets to pull a tiny bulge. Continue up on good face holds, angle slightly left to get some nice holds in a subtle depression, and move right again to get great knobs reminiscent of the Golden Stair pitch of the Exum. You can belay here on the right edge of the face if you don't like rope drag. Move left and into a chimney. Exit the chimney in a crack moving leftward. Go up and then right to the top and a comfortable belay on the right near a wide-fingers, horizontal crack. 200', 8.

To exit, scamper up to the top, traverse leftward and down. Find a large boulder under which there is a beige sling and remnants of a cut red sling. Please check the sling in its entirety before rappelling, since rodents chew on some slings here. Rappel 40'. Walk down to the right.


This ascends the right side of Pulpit Rock aiming for a chimney system near the top.


A rack to a #4 Camalot with 2 #1 Camalots worked. Lots of long slings can help reduce rope drag.

Photos of Right Side Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out.
Topping out.
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb after the crux of P1.
Deb after the crux of P1.

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