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Artist's Bluff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Artist's Arete T 
Brass Balls T 
Gawking Peepers S,TR 
Handy Cap Direct T,S 
Little Monalisa T,TR 
Right Side Route T 
Special Olympics T,S 
Standard Direct T 
Standard Route T 
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 
Standard route 5.7 variation T 
Vincent's Ear T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Right Side Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,027
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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butt shot of kevin, but it shows the first pitch, ...


A fun multi pitch trad climb for folks just getting practice or looking for a moderate adventure... Route finding can be a little tricky but some mistakes climb just as well as the intended line...

start way right at the base of the cliff about 75' right and down from the obvious steep bolted route Special Olympics (5.10c)...

Pitch 1: The route starts in a nice left-facing corner... Climb the corner until you can exit right and continue up a nice off-width crack (you dont need and super wide gear for the off-width , there are spots for #2 and #3 camalots)... Belay at the top of the crack on a low angled slab... there are 2 pins for a belay and perhaps some options for backing them up...

Pitch 2: Climb the slab up and right then climb cracks and blocks up left to a bulge and the top...


Right side of the cliff base at a nice left facing corner...


Regular rack...

Photos of Right Side Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: kevin getting too the last ridge to the top...
kevin getting too the last ridge to the top...
Rock Climbing Photo: cold weather kevin...
cold weather kevin...
Rock Climbing Photo: kevin on the upper part of right side route (varia...
kevin on the upper part of right side route (varia...

Comments on Right Side Route Add Comment
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By ed pinskey
From: bethlehem nh
Oct 12, 2014

Try this fun variation. Climb the first pitch of right side route at the pins pull over to the slab of Artist Arete. Keep traversing up and left across mossy dirty slab aiming for the two bolt anchor at the top of Brass Balls, belay here or stretch it out to the top of the overhanging face that is the last pitch of Brass Balls. Can be done in one pitch or as many as you want.
By lukeweiss
From: St. Johnsbury, VT
Jun 14, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I led the 2nd pitch today and about 50-60' up on the pitch I pulled a giant boulder out of the wall. It was probably 18" across and deep and weighed over 100lbs easy. There is now a sweet little alcove that a small person could sit comfortably in. I was pretty rattled afterward, and finished up the pitch as quickly and carefully as I could, only to find the sheath completely destroyed about 10' down the rope from my tie-in end. Good times.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 15, 2015

Lucky Luke?

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