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Grotto Right (West Side)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
666 S 
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 
Class Act S 
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 
Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a. UNA) S 
Dopesmoker S 
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 
In the Court of the Crimson King S 
Rickety Rock S 
Ruffles Have Ridges T 
Sin after Sin S 
Tenable S 
Trailer Park Girls S 
Tweak Fuck  S,TR 
Unknown S 
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 
Untenable S 
Venarete S 
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 
Where the World Ends T,S 
Winter Capacity S 
Winter Warm-up T 
Woogie's Wild Ride S 

Grotto Right (West Side) Rock Climbing 

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Location: 35.80532, -106.14347 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,790
Administrators: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Mar 6, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Photo-Map of right side Grotto End. Courtesy of R...


This area encompasses the entire right wall of the Grotto. This wall has a different characteristic than the rest up the Diablo area, many of the climbs have pockets, and the crimps are more sharp and positive. The rock is less featured as well, resulting in more technical and sometimes bigger reaches between holds.

The rock, while more monolithic than the opposite side of the canyon doesn't see as much traffic. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers.

The wall is West Facing so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In the winter it gets less shade , and gets more shade in the summer. In early April the wall begins to go into the shade around 3:30. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online estimator tool

The first routes are located just as you enter the Grotto. After passing the climb "Venarete" there is a short break to the next set of climbs. The next area is known as "Winter Capacity Area" as it gets the first sun on winter days. After passing through a small corridor created by a large boulder you will come across the route "Bucktooth" another short break and the wall will curve slightly yielding the routes at the end of the Grotto area.

Getting There 

On the right side of the grotto entrance.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.7 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Grotto Right (West Side):
Class Act   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch)   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Woogie's Wild Ride   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 90'   
Where the Wild Things Aren't   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   
In the Court of the Crimson King   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a. UNA)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Trailer Park Girls   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
Sin after Sin   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Grotto Right (West Side)

Featured Route For Grotto Right (West Side)
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed Strang shaking out during the onsight first asc...

Sin after Sin 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : ... : Grotto Right (West Side)
Cli[p the first 2 bolts of the unnamed arete and continue up slightly overhanging crimps. Pull through the technical crux to gain the upper prow. Perfect rock sustained climbing and great position combine for another 4 star route in the Grotto....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Grotto Right (West Side) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of Class Act next to Bong Crack.
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Class Act next to Bong Crack.

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