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Jamcrack Spire
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Right One 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Erikson, 1978
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 24, 2006

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'Right One' (5.10a) is the left-facing, left-leani...

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  • Description 

    Climb up a chunky crack in a very shallow corner up to below a right-leaning, left-facing corner that forms something of an overhang or roof. Set a few cams above your head (2.5-3") and start heading up the roof, getting feet out right and then pulling up into a stem (crux, 5.10) and over the roof. From there, climb the route as drawn in Rossiter's Flatirons topo going up and right on some cracks through some wide sections and up to join an arete. Climb a few feet of face moves to finish up top (5.6, S). A large cam deep down in good horizontal would protect these top moves. Topout to the right and belay.
    The fixed rap presently in place is new but needs to be backed up with a second loop of webbing (~19'). The rap present when we arrived today was unusable as it had been chewed completely through some time ago.


    This is the right-most crack in the right-most side of the North face of the Jamcrack Spire.


    A set of nuts and cams to 4" A large piece or two will add security to the otherwise runout but mellow, wider parts above the roof. (#5 to #6 new style Camalot possible, but not needed).

    Comments on Right One Add Comment
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    By kenn
    Sep 3, 2007

    No anchor on top. Used bottom anchor to rap back side, then pull rope in front.

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