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d. The Fortress
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L to R R to L Alpha
Left Off Block T,TR 
Pumped T,TR 
Right Off Block TR 
Undertoe T 

Right Off Block 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 143
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Jun 16, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Right Off Block.

Description 

Here's a route that deserves more action, esp. considering how many folks visit the Clamshell Wall "next door". It's a fun, crimpy, thoughtful face; rated 10b in the guidebook (that might be too high, actually) but it really doesn't have a true crux. It's more of an endurance affair, and thus is a good exercise for anyone looking to challenge their finger stamina.

See photo for route. Step up off R end of slab boulder, work left early on then finish on the steepest rock on the upper face.

Location 

Access the top via the terrace that's adjacent to the right-most Clamshell routes. Access the base through the tunnel.

Protection 

Not leadable IMO. Plug all your smallest cams (half inch and smaller) in the horizontal on the vertical wall 25-30 feet above the route (look for the bleached log lying on the ground here). Extend to the edge with static rope or webbing. NOTE - the ring bolts that are 15 ft R of this route will NOT work.


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