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Right of Trash Can Alley 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: garrettem on Jul 4, 2013

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The base of the route prior to major cleaning. Th...

Description 

Pitch 1 -- start out with easy climbing up some fun cracks with lots of holds. Climb past and ignore an awkwardly placed overhanging bolt anchor on your far left, stay in the corner and continue climbing for another 25 feet or so up to a nice belay ledge with two bolt anchor on climber's right. This pitch can be top roped if desired.

Pitch 2 -- start climber's right off the belay and move up the face trending left toward the big chimney above. There is gear, but it might feel a little run out to some. Reach a big dirty ledge with some interesting moves, and work your way into the chimney toward a great hand crack on the left wall. Continue up and out of the chimney with cracks and face holds to find a two bolt rap anchor.

Rap the route in two raps with a single 60m rope.

Location 

Walk past Sweet Sunday Serenade, and continue on the trail just beyond Motion Fascination. Cut up left toward the backside of the notch that Sweet Sunday raps into. The route is up the obvious, large corner starting near a large tree.

Protection 

Nuts and cams to bolted anchors. Rap with a single 60m, two raps.


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By garrettem
Jul 4, 2013

This route has probably been done before, since there was some old rotten bail gear midway up. If someone knows more about it, let me know and I'll update the info to reflect that.

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