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South Face of Arthur's Rock
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Right of Passage 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: B. Beavers, B. Scott
Season: Fall, Winter and Spring
Page Views: 3,767
Submitted By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking back at the well-protected (trad) traverse...

Description 

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/art...

P1: (5.7) After reaching the East Side Ledge, locate a short crack/groove feature leading to the first bolt. Climb this groove using a slung flake for protection, continue past two bolts (P1 crux) before moving up and left on low-angle terrain to a two-bolt anchor.

P2: (5.9) Climb up a small ramp and clip the first bolt. Make a big move back left to a jug (P2 crux) before manteling into an easy crack feature. Continue following the crack feature as it traverses left until it ends at a steep bulge. Pull over this bulge to reach the 2nd pitch anchor.

Descent: perform two 20m rappels to reach the Arthur’s Rock Trail, or use the walk-off trail to reach the base of the climb.

Location 

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

Protection 

4 bolts and a standard rack. There are 2 sets of 2-bolt chain anchors.


Photos of Right of Passage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron following up the sweet traverse.
Ron following up the sweet traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux bolts.
The crux bolts.
Rock Climbing Photo: Right of Passage, 5.9.
BETA PHOTO: Right of Passage, 5.9.

Comments on Right of Passage Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ol Toby
From: CA
Jul 10, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Super fun romp up the slabby face. Destined to become a local moderate classic!
By Katy90
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 21, 2013

Fun climb close to home. We left Fort Collins around 4:00 pm and were able to hike up and climb these pitches with daylight to spare. Didn't see a great sling placement on the first pitch, but was well protected with a #2 Metolius. Pitch 2 has a more bouldery start and ends with an exciting traverse (great jugs along the way). Awesome view of Horsetooth and FC from the top! Still some loose rock, so wear a helmet :-).
By Joe Varela
Sep 22, 2013

The left-leaning traverse at the end of p2 is fun.
By BBarryAK
Sep 30, 2013

Man, Arthur's Rock has great potential for gear and sport lines. Right of Passage has fun moves ranging from a slightly overhung start to pitch 2, as well as techy slab moves at the top of pitch 1. The finishing traverse has much exposure with good gear, with one of the best views for a top-out belay. Bring a camera.
By nruea
From: . . . CO
Dec 13, 2013

Great climb! A good 5.9 lead. Love the location too.
By Ryan De
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 19, 2015

Super fun climb on the second pitch with good exposure!
By garrett knorr
Feb 14, 2016

Is it possible to climb this with just quickdraws (and a rope obviously)? It doesn't seem like there are a lot of bolts from the description.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 15, 2016

Hey Garrett,

Yeah you definitely need a small trad rack to climb this route. Both pitches require trad gear to supplement the bolts.

Have fun and be safe!
By tkessel
From: Windsor,CO
Jan 30, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Super fun climb! The second pitch is money.

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