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Right Mel Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Powell, Mike Waugh & Darryl Nakahira, April 1983
Page Views: 1,748
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Feb 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Thin nuts help here


A good climb with a fierce little crux.

After a few opening moves the crux arrives all too soon; from a good small wire placement, execute very iffy lie-away moves to gain a slot, small cam. From here good holds lead to a welcome rest and re-group. Small wires help with the confidence on a tricky high-step sequence that comes next. The crack now relents (large cam), so take a deep breath and enjoy.


Small wires, small cams, large cam. Bolt anchor.

Photos of Right Mel Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of Mike on the crux.
Another view of Mike on the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mel's Diner showing Right and Left Mel Cracks
BETA PHOTO: Mel's Diner showing Right and Left Mel Cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Mel Cracks
BETA PHOTO: Mel Cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Browning soloing the Right Mel Crack photo: r.mira...
Browning soloing the Right Mel Crack photo: r.mira...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Right Mel Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
"Right Mel Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian getting ready for the second crux on Mel's C...
Brian getting ready for the second crux on Mel's C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting ready to make the move...
Getting ready to make the move...

Comments on Right Mel Crack Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Feb 3, 2003

Descend down a chimney to the left.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 21, 2004

We did this one yesterday and all enjoyed it. We did it on a top rope however (I know! Lazy). There are no anchors up top as mentioned and cams are the ticket. But it is very possible to sling the right hand rock some 15ft or so behind the top off with a couple of 50ft, looped either webbing or cord as we did. Not the best way to go however. But doable for those short on gear (Again we were lazy and left the rack in the truck.) Easy to climb up gully to the left. Also a set of bolts to do the crack to the left. Have fun!
By Erik
Aug 17, 2004

There are two bolts on top of this crack. The confusion is caused by the names. The right one is apparently the left one and the left one is the right one. So, this is actually the left one with the bolt anchor.
By Josh Beck
Nov 5, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great climbing - would get more stars if it were longer. Excellent rock, excellent protection, fun climbing, I've done this and it's neighbor several times.
By C Miller
From: CA
Nov 30, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

More of one move wonder and of lesser quality than the neighboring Left Mel Crack. The crux comes early on this and involves a reach into the bottom of a crack/pod (shorter climbers may find this move to be reachy and thus harder). Higher, another easier but interesting section is passed before it eases considerably. One star out of five.
By Dustysdawg
Dec 31, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

We did the Mels Cracks yesterday. The "Right Mel Crack" is a very fun climb, but it is too short. It was my first 10b/c lead. It is definitely easier and less sustained than the "Left Mels Crack" that I followed.I found the crux to be after the first bulge where you have to do some smears and a high step into the crack. The bottom would have been harder if I was shorter than 6'2.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 6, 2007

Crux is height dependent, but protects well with a nut. I'm about 5'9" with a + index and am fully extended on the crux move. Let the tall person lead this one.
By Johnnie Lyman
Apr 24, 2008

I don't feel that this is height dependent. I think tall people just skip the sketchy moves. I'm 5'2", have a +0.5" ape index and climbed this clean on TR. Fun route. Is great fingers for girls like me with small hands.
By nickmartino15
Jan 23, 2017

I climbed this route with a guide who has been climbing at J-Tree for over 30 years, it was my first time climbing there. He did mention that recently a right foot broke off that was right where you wanted it at the first crux. He did say he thought it was harder than it was before. Also, another party was there and took a couple falls on their first piece and some rock ended up breaking off, in case anyone goes to the climb and wonders what happened. They could still place gear fine where the rock broke.
By mousebob
Feb 19, 2017

Just climbed this again today. The crux felt harder than previously - I wouldn't be surprised if some rock broke off like the above poster stated. Still an awesome climb.

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