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Right Long's Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  TR, 18'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: John Long, 1974 sans rope
Page Views: 3,059
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Sequence of Luke sending Right Long's crack. Phot...

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This crack is more like a chimney after a bit of offwidth problem solving. Not often done, although clean.


TR bolts

Photos of Right Long's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Long's Cracks
The Long's Cracks

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By rocky233
Jun 21, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Anybody who rates Right Longs 5.11b definitely has not done it. This is harder than Mother Superior.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Sep 28, 2006

By G.McCay
From: Galloway, NJ
Apr 5, 2007

Rumors suggest 5.11d. Before the chockstone was carjacked away (yes, a floor jack) from the base of the crack this was a great 5.10c fist crack.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 22, 2009

Once you figure out the beta this doable at 5.11/11+

If you are comfortable inverting I think may be easier that Mother Superior...
By Brandon R
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 17, 2009

I'd have to agree with Luke about this being easier than Mother Superior. My knees seem to have a serious disagreement with MS though, so YMMV.
By John Long
Jun 26, 2010

I don't ever remember this being 5.10c. We always thought it was 5.11, especially on the first ascent, circa 1975, on-sight with no pads and no rope. Don't pitch.


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