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Right-Handed Dyke 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Reggie Thompson, Karen Long, and Linda Moran (Oct. 1990)
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Justin Slagle on Jan 3, 2010

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Description 

This route climbs the Right Dike with an adjacent thin crack to the left on the Vagamarket Hill-Right Buttress and deserves an R rating because pro is nearly nonexistent. The 5.10a part of the climb is for the first 40 feet of the climb and then eases off for the next 60. Fun moves but short lived, and recommended to toprope, but that's your call. About 100' up the climb 15 feet to the right of the headwall for James Brown's... there's a splitter crack to set a toprope anchor where you'll need cams to 3 inches (BD #1,2,and 3, 2's worked best). Setting them high in the crack made the rope run pretty good.

Protection 

Cams to 3 inches for the top of the climb and the anchor, no idea what would work for the first 30' of the 10a part.


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