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Right Gull 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A0 [details]
FA: FA '65 Dean Caldwell, Chuck Brown FFA '72 Dean Fry
Page Views: 589
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Sep 17, 2014  with updates from Topher Dabrowski

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Beacon Rock is open from July 15, 2016 through February 1st, 2017. See note for more details. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the earliest lines at Beacon, and considered a super-classic of the area. Quite adventurous for the grade, though the climbing itself is short and scrappy.

Right Gull starts from Snag Ledge and there are two popular options to reach the start of the route. The first is to climb the first pitch of SE Corner. The second and far better option would be to climb Little Wing and combine it with the first pitch of Right Gull without stopping to belay on Snag Ledge. This avoids the typical jam up of parties on Snag Ledge especially since it is not only the first belay on the SE Corner route but it is also a common rappel station for parties descending down from Jill's Thrill's belay anchors.

Right Gull can be climbed as per the original line but many locals have pieced together a much more enjoyable variation. Both the original and alternative routes will be described below.

RIGHT GULL ORIGINAL, 5.10a

P1: Climb SE Corner(5.7) or Little Wing(5.9) to Snag Ledge's bolted anchor. You can also skip the anchor and continue directly into the next pitch. 25m

P2: From the Snag Ledge anchors, move left, up and around a corner. Clip a piton, make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. Make another more airy step across to the next pillar and belay at the bolted anchors. 25m

P3: Climb up the thin crack on the right of the belay, protecting it early with small gear and passing a piton to a large ledge. Move slightly right and up following an offwidth to hand sized crack to another large ledge. Walk left along this ledge to find the bolted belay anchor. 20m

P4: Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an Oak tree. Climb past the tree and into another easier layback right facing corner. Another short step takes you to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 35m


RIGHT GULL ALTERNATE VARIATIONS 5.9

P1: Climb SE Corner(5.7) or Little Wing(5.9) to Snag Ledge's bolted anchor. You can also skip the anchor and continue directly into the next pitch. 25m

P2: From the Snag Ledge anchors, move left, up and around a corner. Clip a piton, make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. From here climb the crack directly above this pillar (VULCAN'S VARIATION, 5.8) to belay on the next ledge building an anchor with gear. 30m

P3: Move to the far left hand/fist crack and jam this to another large ledge with a bolted anchor, skip this anchor if you brought enough big cams and continue up. Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an Oak tree. Look to your left and spot the clean corner crack (MURIEL'S MEMOIR VARIATION, 5.9). Climb this finger crack to another ledge and follow a short step to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 50m

Note that you will want doubles in the 2", 3" and maybe 4" sizes if you intend to do this alternate variation as 3 pitches. Otherwise break P3 into 2 pitches by stopping at the bolted anchors.

Instead, continue up what Olson describes as Muriel's Memoir (5.9) which is actually the best climbing on the entire route by far, and is no harder than 5.8. Take this beautiful finger crack to a grassy ledge and belay off a sappy fir tree. Enjoy the view.

Location 

Above and left of Little Wing, step across the pillar at the start of Fear of Flying

Protection 

Gear to 4" (in spite of what Olson says)


Comments on Right Gull Add Comment
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By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Oct 23, 2014

5.10a OR 5.8 (A0). I recommend the 10a route, which I believe is the original. Don't believe everything Olson says.
By BrianWilson
From: Brush Prairie, Washington
Jul 23, 2016

Our route: P1:Little Wing-Vulcan's Variation- Belay. P2 Left hand crack-Muriel's-Grassy Ledge topout. Having two #4's would have been nice.