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13 - Knobby Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Flake, The T,TR 
Keep the Muscle, Lose The Fat S 
Meltdown S,TR 
Right Flake T 
Shaft of the Penetrator TR 
Unnamed Boulder Problem S 

Right Flake 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: Kenan on Oct 16, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is the rightmost of the two obvious (chalked) right-leaning flakes at Knobby Wall. Start on a nice jug in the flake and follow it via fingers to a rest stance about two thirds of the way up (5.10). Make a transition to a right-hand flake and then fire the crimpy 2-move crux to a sloper jug at the lip (5.11).


3 bolts can be clipped to left of the flake (shared with the route Changos Cabrones). But this flake can also be led entirely on gear (finger-sized cams) or TR'd (beware of the huge swing potential into boulders if you fall in the first half). If you're near your limit, you'll probably want to clip the bolts and place one or two pieces for additional protection.

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