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Right Facet 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder (2009)
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Jim H on Mar 16, 2017

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Starting up our P3

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Description 

Route description courtesy of Colin - (Thanks Colin!!!)

P1: 5.5 70M start up broken slabs and brushy cracks about 40' climber's right of the massive right-facing dihedral on the east shoulder of the formation. belay at a comfortable ledge that's hard to miss

P2: 5.6 70M continue up through multiple small right-facing slabby corners. when you are almost out of rope, pop out of the corner and onto the face, traversing 15' climber's left to a small half-moon ledge we called "Sickle Ledge". you are now directly under the obvious dihedral

P3: 5.6 65M move left off Sickle Ledge and stem up the dihedral, passing underneath the headwall to the flat-ish summit of the east shoulder. **these first three pitches could be bypassed by continuing the approach around the east side of the formation, and up the gully between the Prism and Saber, but they offered mostly enjoyable warm-up climbing**

P4: 5.9 75M head up the face via path of least resistance. one or two 5.9 face climbing cruxes. This pitch felt like a gear chase and almost deserved a PG rating, but was mostly 5.5-5.8. My second simul climbed the first easy 15' off the east shoulder so I could belay in a shady, broken right facing corner just past an old quarter-incher with an SMC hanger...

P5: 5.8 35M continue up brushy low-angle cracks to the small saddle in the ridge directly above the P4 belay. Pop out onto the south face of the formation and do an exciting slab traverse on beautiful granite about 20' climber's left. Over the corner a 10' downclimb brings you to a nice belay ledge at the base of a juggy left-facing corner

P6: 5.8 65M The glory pitch! Run up the corner with amazing holds and ample pro, leading to several ledges guarded by low-angle cracks through small roofs. Traverse climber's left under the false summit block to belay

P7&8: 5.easy We began simul-climbing from the P6 belay, skirting underneath and west of the pointy summit block and running up the ridge. Two long pitches brought us to the true summit, marked by a cairn but we sadly did not find a register.

P9: 5.easy From the summit continue along the ridge, making one 25' rappel to the north, then one ~30M rappel to the east, into the top of the gully between the Prism and Saber Ridge. Pop over the saddle and descend on the west side of The Prism

Both rappel stations are blocks slung with cordelette. At the second station, both cordelettes had core-shots, so I added another 6mm strand with a back-up biner.

Protection 

Trad rack


Photos of Right Facet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Skirting the false summit with views to rival Pata...
Skirting the false summit with views to rival Pata...
Rock Climbing Photo: Our P2 with the unbelievable Saber Ridge in the ba...
Our P2 with the unbelievable Saber Ridge in the ba...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yellow route.
BETA PHOTO: Yellow route.

Comments on Right Facet Add Comment
Show which comments
By colin-72
Jun 28, 2017

What a stupendously fun alpine route!! Did it this past Sunday 6.25.17, conditions were optimal, trivial snow fields on the approach and descent, and the climbing was mostly terrific.

I wondered why there was no pitch-by-pitch beta posted, but after our ascent I realized there are many, many variations on the right facet of the formation, so it's kind of a choose your own adventure situation. For those who are curious here's how we had a blast with a 70M rope...

P1: 5.5 70M start up broken slabs and brushy cracks about 40' climber's right of the massive right-facing dihedral on the east shoulder of the formation. belay at a comfortable ledge that's hard to miss

P2: 5.6 70M continue up through multiple small right-facing slabby corners. when you are almost out of rope, pop out of the corner and onto the face, traversing 15' climber's left to a small half-moon ledge we called "Sickle Ledge". you are now directly under the obvious dihedral

P3: 5.6 65M move left off Sickle Ledge and stem up the dihedral, passing underneath the headwall to the flat-ish summit of the east shoulder. **these first three pitches could be bypassed by continuing the approach around the east side of the formation, and up the gully between the Prism and Saber, but they offered mostly enjoyable warm-up climbing**

P4: 5.9 75M head up the face via path of least resistance. one or two 5.9 face climbing cruxes. This pitch felt like a gear chase and almost deserved a PG rating, but was mostly 5.5-5.8. My second simul climbed the first easy 15' off the east shoulder so I could belay in a shady, broken right facing corner just past an old quarter-incher with an SMC hanger...

P5: 5.8 35M continue up brushy low-angle cracks to the small saddle in the ridge directly above the P4 belay. Pop out onto the south face of the formation and do an exciting slab traverse on beautiful granite about 20' climber's left. Over the corner a 10' downclimb brings you to a nice belay ledge at the base of a juggy left-facing corner

P6: 5.8 65M The glory pitch! Run up the corner with amazing holds and ample pro, leading to several ledges guarded by low-angle cracks through small roofs. Traverse climber's left under the false summit block to belay

P7&8: 5.easy We began simul-climbing from the P6 belay, skirting underneath and west of the pointy summit block and running up the ridge. Two long pitches brought us to the true summit, marked by a cairn but we sadly did not find a register.

P9: 5.easy From the summit continue along the ridge, making one 25' rappel to the north, then one ~30M rappel to the east, into the top of the gully between the Prism and Saber Ridge. Pop over the saddle and descend on the west side of The Prism

Both rappel stations are blocks slung with cordelette. At the second station, both cordelettes had core-shots, so I added another 6mm strand with a back-up biner.

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