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Lower Peanuts
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Right Escape 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: M. Schlauch, C. Ruckgaber, E. Johnson. 2001
Season: spring, fall
Page Views: 90
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Jun 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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  • Description 

    This is a worthwhile and enjoyable climb with interesting and varied climbing and a little spice.

    Climb the weakness down low for 40' to access a ledge system with some tottering choss below the obvious, left-facing flake. Negotiate through the choss past flakes and back to good rock via cracks to fun laybacking up the flake. At the top of the flake, pull the overlap up and right following a finger crack. This is exciting exposed climbing that is somewhat sustained and tricky to protect at first. It is jalapeño spicy, maybe more PG than PG-13? Fun continually interesting climbing up and right takes you to the anchors on Peanuts. There is quite a bit of lichen, since this is not well-trodden, but it is well worthwhile and recommended if you are in the area and/or enjoy the road less traveled.


    This route is a variation to Left Side (10 R), which climbs the obvious flake forming a left-facing corner with a wide slot, right of The Shield. Atop the flake where Left Side traverses left, surmount the overlap via a finger crack and move up and left across the face to the anchors on Peanuts.


    Standard Eldo rack, maybe extra finger-size. Levin says to 3" with optional 4", but the wide flake has small pieces in the back, and I never wanted anything larger than a #2 Camalot.

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