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Right Crack 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ??
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,173
Submitted By: matt j hartman on Sep 6, 2011

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overhanging last moves

Description 

This route follows the corners on the Klettershoe Chimney for a few pitches then breaks right on splitters before the looming chimney above. Great car to car or short outing.
p-1 climb up ramps and corners one easy ground
p-2 see pitch one and repeat. aim for the huge corner above. did these 2 pitches with a bit of simul climbing. possibly 3 pitches to get to the corner.
p-3 climb the nice corner and move right after about 100' 5.9
p-4 climb the very splitter hand crack to an alcove. excellent 5.9 130'
p-5 move over some small overlaps in the chimney to the looming overhang. exposed, short, well protected crux to the summit. 70'
Look over to the Klettershoe and think 5.9!

Location 

before North lake turn left off trail and hike to the base. there is a faint trail right before the Jackass pass trail crosses the creek while you are still in the woods. cache packs above and move toward the Sundance. Really good rock on the last 3 pitches. Worth doing.

Protection 

Alpine rack with a 4 camalot, maybe an extra hand size.


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By Jikimika Dinglehoffer
From: Lander, Wy
Aug 31, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The hand crack on the second to last pitch is great, and mostly goes on #3s. The pitch above features two small roofs with good feet on the face to the left, and both are well protected.

The upper roof looked bad(wide and intimidating) from below but went on deep, secure hand jams and some straight out flake pulls/laybacking above. No harder than 5.9, and MILES easier than the route next door, the northeast arete.
By matt j hartman
From: Leavenworth WA
May 30, 2013

true, it is an easy 10 and mostly 5.9 or less. didn't want to re rate things too much though. far easier than Black Elk, another area 5.10.

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