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Left Variation TR 
Right Crack T,TR 

Right Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 129
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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On the jug near the top of the route

Description 

Climb right leaning double cracks, to a groove, move right. Lieback and mantel to the top. This is to the right of "Left Crack".

Protection 

Top rope.


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By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A good lead. Medium cams in the crack down low, then small nuts and cams on the balancy section up high. A #1 C4 protects the topout. Bring some #3 or #4 C4's to build the anchor. Hexes worok well, too.
By andrew bogaard
Jun 7, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Maybe I've got the routes confused since there aren't any pictures, but I found this route much more difficult than the route to its left with a MP 5.9+ rating. I would call that route 5.8. Also, I disagree with Josh in that I think this lead would be unstable and with poor gear, and dirty, slippery feet. Maybe I'm off route?

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