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Left Connect from Melchsee S,TR 
Left High Face TR 
Left Low Face TR 
Low Connect from Melchsee TR 
NorthEast Ridge Direct TR 
NorthEast ridge Left side TR 
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 
Platform Bulge Right S,TR 
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Right Connect from Melchsee TR 
Right Low Chimney TR 

Right Connect from Melchsee 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Alistair Veitch + Tara + Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 21
Submitted By: kenr on Jul 30, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Miroir sector 8 Y. Right Connect from Melchsee Z...

Description 

Thoughful face climbing.
Interesting way to connect multi-pitch route from the bottom to the top of the Dent d'Argentine cliff.

A way to connect to this route from below would be to lead the bolted sport route "Trail Slab Face Left" of sector Melchsee.
. . (or at a closer difficult could first Top-Rope the route "Central - Alcove" or "Central - Right Corner" in sector Melchsee).

If not already at the standing dead tree, walk right roughly horizontally parallel to top edge of Melchsee cliff to reach it. From the tree, walk horizontal right (N) 10 feet, then scramble up rock diagonal right 5 feet to another ledge which slopes down gentle right. Look up and see bolt. Climb up to this, then diagonal right (to well above right-facing chimney/corner), and finish straight up (staying a bit to the left of the bolt line for the route "Right Anchor Up") to reach two-bolt anchor near right end of Mid-Level Ledge.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

The standing dead tree near the right side of the wide ledge at the top of the Melchsee sector.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection 

Bolts (not sure how many, perhaps 8?) up to two-bolt anchor with mussy-hooks, and also a rappel ring on cord (as of July 2017).

. . (bolts + hangers are 304 stainless. Other anchor hardware is mostly Plated-Steel. Anchor and intermediate bolts installed 2017).

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Miroir sector.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.


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