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The Thumb
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 
Center Slot T 
Confines of Power S 
Descent Route T 
Epic Sushi Party S 
Konichiwa S 
Left Center T 
Mind Over Matter T 
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 
North Overhangs T 
Opposable Distraction T,S 
Pigeon Perch T,S 
Pixie, The S 
Rest in Peace S 
Right Center T 
Rooftop Rodeo S 
South Ridge of the Thumb T 
Sucker Punch S 
Thumb Up My Arse T,S 
Thumb's Up S 
Uphill Cracks T 
Vapor Trail S 
Zig Arete S 

Right Center 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: preferably a drier time
Page Views: 116
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: The line I chose. Small red Xs are gear placements...

Description 

This is an obvious line on the East side of The Thumb. It does receive a star in Gillett's but not Rossiter's guidebook. Not too bad when you're trying to squeeze in something between downpours. You can do this in 1 or 2 pitches; however, the 2-bolt anchor depicted in Rossiter's guide seems to be gone.

From the trail's junction with The Thumb, head right about 50 feet. Look up & see a right-angling, right-facing, obtuse dihedral with blackish lichen (a touch slippery when wet). This is the line. Start up face moves to a short, left-facing dihedral with a fixed orange TCU. The start probably warrants a PG-13. The crux of the route is likely the movement out of this dihedral onto face holds up & right. Continue up past a pin (no bolts to be seen), follow the right-facing corner up, pass another pin. At about 100 feet up, you can move left about 12 feet to a 2 bolt anchor or you can continue to the top.

From the top, you can move above the slabby West face, drop down (with a belay), and find a set of slings threaded through a constriction. Rap 95'. Or you can downclimb to Brace Y'self aka Pin Route's anchor & rappel.

Location 

This is located on the E side of the Thumb, about 50 feet up & right from where the trail meets the rock.

Protection 

Wires, Aliens to #2 Camalot. 60m rope useful.


Photos of Right Center Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Allen about 1/2 way up.
Allen about 1/2 way up.

Comments on Right Center Add Comment
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By Ayescotty9
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I had problems with massive rope drag doing this in 1 pitch - and that was with generous slings used down low. It's easy to miss the "anchor 12 feet to the left" - as I did, and the only suitable crack for building a belay - a wide 1"-4" crack - isn't found til topping out.

This long 170' pitch could probably use a good mid-pitch bolted belay station in the slabby mid-part of the climb. If I had expertise in this, I'd go do it myself.
By Greg Speer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Ditto on the need for a mid route bolted belay station. We managed a less than optimal belay there. Otherwise, a very enjoyable climb.
By Rick Blair
From: Denver
Aug 4, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

To me, this would be awful as 1 pitch. We broke it up by slinging a block above the 5.7 section off route to climber's right. Wide gear in the grassy groove above would be another option.

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