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Right "5.9" Route 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Mar 16, 2015

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P1: Pick your starting point near the bolt and move up. Going up the gully a little bit looks easier but really isn't. Continue up passing two more bolts and gear placements on the large left-facing flake and then the big undercling flake. Committing, but solid moves above the undercling will get you to the ledge and a belay tree/rap station.

P2: From the belay move out left and up to a bolt (going directly up from the belay is possible but is committing and 5.9+/5.10 and no pro). Up onto the big ledge and gear placements. Surmont the block ledge and then up the face to three more bolts on the headwall. Crux is at the 3rd bolt...delicate and balancy slab moves above the bolt. Run it out after that to the top.

Gear to 3" can be helpful for building a gear anchor and redirect at the top. You can walk-off left to the trail or go right to the rappel trees (two-raps to ground, need a 60m)

You could do the route in one long single pitch but I wouldn't want that rope drag at the crux.

Appreciate any more info on this route including its name, FA team (Mike???), etc


This is on the southern portion of the Lower Ridge Slabs. From the descent trail at the col, go down and to the left, likely following a faint trail. This will get you to the base of the slabs on this end. This route starts at a bolt that you can reach pretty easily off the deck. To your right is a small gully. You'll be able to see the bolts on the upper head wall and the large roof on the left. On Mike Doyle's topo this is the right of the two 5.9 routes on the "head wall".


6 or 7 bolts total, rack to 3"

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