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Ridge Runner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Dry
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Alpine Carl on Jun 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is, well, the crux could be a lot of places. it could be in the first third, where the the thinnest moves are, or it could be in the middle, where you literally palm the ridge for what feels like forever, or it could be the top-out mantle that occurs 15 feet above, and to the left of the last bolt.... I'll go with the mantle. This can be a spooky route for a 5.8 leader, and not a pretty one to fall on.


Location 

This route is the farthest left of Ronin's routes, and ascends the left side of the smooth ridge/arete (this is the first feature you'll see approaching along the trail from the west).

Protection 

One or two small TCU's can be slotted behind a flake before reaching the first bolt. Then just start clipping.


Comments on Ridge Runner Add Comment
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By Mark van Eijk
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

very sustained technical edges and slab made this climb feel stiff (and rewarding!) for the grade. Bolt spacing seems bold but easily top-roped. Great practice for improving confidence in your feet.
By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Jul 31, 2012

I should have no problem at this grade, but I retreated after placing the first (and only possible) piece of gear 10' up and still 10' from the first bolt. TR'd it and was glad I didn't lead it - the top would also be scary. Really fun route though!
By Dru
Nov 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

If you start to the right of the arete, you can get a couple RPs or micronuts in from the ledge before moving left around the arete. Then you get a good Tricam or TCU before the bolt. From there, three bolts to the top; sustained at the grade but no hard moves.
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 26, 2016

The Bourdon guide's gear beta for this is not really accurate. You only need some RPs and a couple finger/tips sized cams (doubled-up, because why not?) for the obvious crack before the first bolt. The protection is reasonable for a confident 5.9 climber and I felt the bolt placements were pretty right on. If you're not a strong friction climber you'll likely wish there was closer pro at the top and a fall would likely be unpleasant.

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