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Ridge of Bliss 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Gary Wolfarth & Jason Foote Summer 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 2,257
Submitted By: J Foote on Dec 13, 2006

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"puke" pitch

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1: Start in a left-facing corner [one bolt]. Continue up easy (runout) slab to bushy ramp. Climb the roof above to chains. 120'

P2: Easy right-facing corner and over roof. Step right onto slab [fixed KB] climbing technical terrain past two additional bolts. Continue up corner to roof. Step left onto slab [three bolts] to reach rap rings. 160'+/-

P3: Climb corner above anchors passing three bolts. Excellent climbing. 160'. This pitch was originally led without bolts!

P4: Follow easy slab to two-bolt anchor below roof. No pro. 60'

P5: "Puke Pitch". Step right to main left-facing/angled corner. Climb up the corner (thin pro) past two pins. Step left into next corner (very exposed) and climb handcrack to two-bolt belay on ledge in chimney. 200'

P6: Climb left side of chimney until it is possible to step across to the right. Loose chockstones--Beware! Climb to right of tree through brushy area and onto slab. Pass three bolts before heading back into brush for tree belay.

P7: Climb slab left of bushy corner. After second bolt work right to roof and finger crack. Mantle to 4:20 ledge for tree slings. 100'

P8: "The Tower of Bliss". Diagonal right past three bolts to groove/crack on right side of tower. Rap station in trees. 120'

This route was established ground up.

Location 

Approach: Park at the Grist Mill (.06 miles up from sign) Just below the Wasatch Resort is an old bridge abutments (approx. 400 yards down the trail) Cross the river here and head straight up the wash. Pick up a bouldering trail winding uphill. Pass the "Prime Rib" boulder and continue up and right on faint trail to base of climb. Approx. 20 minutes. During spring runoff it is impossible to cross the creek. You can cross higher up the canyon and traverse into the Wasatch Resort Bouldering Area and then continue up to the climb.
Descent: From the top of the 4:20 ledge it is possible to rap into the drainage to the west for an easy walkoff. Start from northern point of ledge for two raps to the west from fixed anchors. 110' and 70'. Thrash down to the main gully until you reach an impassable cliff. Traverse right (upcanyon) following the buttress edge back to the base of the climb. Approx. 15 minutes from rappel.

Protection 

Medium nuts, 00 TCU thru #4 Camalot, lots of runners


Photos of Ridge of Bliss Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tower of Bliss
Tower of Bliss
Rock Climbing Photo: the ridge of bliss
the ridge of bliss
Rock Climbing Photo: Ridge of Bliss with approximate line and belays. U...
BETA PHOTO: Ridge of Bliss with approximate line and belays. U...
Rock Climbing Photo: ridge of bliss
ridge of bliss
Rock Climbing Photo: P5
P5
Rock Climbing Photo: P3
P3
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 from the base. The bolt is in the upper roof sh...
BETA PHOTO: P1 from the base. The bolt is in the upper roof sh...
Rock Climbing Photo: ridge from the parking lot
BETA PHOTO: ridge from the parking lot

Comments on Ridge of Bliss Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Jun 16, 2007

This route is a lot of fun but we ran out of time. If you want to bail after the third pitch you can move about 15' up and off to the right above the belay on a small ledge system. Traverse about 50-100' back into the gully and down back to your packs.

Leading any of this without bolts would be terrifying with the little bit of lichen and all. I especially liked the third pitch but I have a feeling those upper pitches are where its at.

Nice work guys. Oh, and this starts about 40 yards uphill of Prime Rib.
By James Garrett
Jul 13, 2007

Very fun route. Kudos to the FA team. Almost every pitch of this 8 pitch climb is memorable and high quality. The last Tower Of Bliss pitch is awesome and not to be missed. Loved it!
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 13, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I couldn't resist...
I agree, this is a worthy route (and will only get better). Kudos to the FA's. The 8th pitch "Tower of Bliss" is one of the best pitches I've done in the Wasatch! Although there is still lots of cleaning and trailwork needed, this isn't really too bad of an "adventure" climb (i.e. no epics in the Wasatch).

Craig, the beta is above but here is my take on the ratings:
P1 = 5.8ish maybe .9 w/a little bit of ez run out
P2 = .9/maybe ez .10 (one steepish series of moves and several tricky mantles)
P3 = .7 corner to slab
P4 = ~60 ft. of ez slab (unrope)
P5 = "the Puke pitch" .9+/.10 really not that hard, just awkward, physical, and exposed
P6 = ez chimney/ramp to .7ish slab
P7 = "420 pitch" .8ish slab to .9/.10ish finger crack
p8 = .9/.10ish slab and arete climbing w/ some thin gear at crux

IMO P5 and P8 are the crux pitches w/ P7 being on par...
I am a bit weary of pegging a decisive rating for a few reasons, a) there is still tons of cleaning (i.e. lots of lichen and dirt) b) approachies

OH, we bailed directly off the top of P8 due West in two long double rope raps! not sure if it was any easier than rapping back to 4:20 ledge and then 2 shorter raps to top of gully but...the terrain sure was sweet!
By tenesmus
Jul 13, 2007

I thought the approach is pretty easy. Just stay further right than you think and the bouldering trails take you to withing 50-60 yards of the route. Bushwhack straight up to the base of the cliff and walk 20 feet right to the beginning dihedral. 15-20 minutes without a lot of hustle.

I'll bring a small brush with me next time. and mabe some loppers.
By garyw
From: ut
Jul 14, 2007

the rap from the 420 ledge is two single 70m with good rap anchors.traverse from ledge north a little. we have a few more lines to put up yet... thanks guys
By J Foote
From: SLC
Jul 19, 2007

Glad to hear everyone has been enjoying the route and yes it does need a lot of cleaning, we've done a ton but much more is needed. Glens ratings seemed right on to me, it seems to get easier with every cleaning. Don't be afraid to bring some tools and do a little work. Enjoy!

Jason
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Fun and slightly terrifying route not to be done in the heat of the summer as there's a bunch of slabbing to be done and it's in the sun the whole way (except for belays, but wtf happened to north facing stuff being in the shade). It will definitely get 3 stars once it cleans up more, there's still a bunch of moss, lichen, exfoliating granite, and hollow sounding stuff. Great adventure though...

I thought P2 suffered a bit from wandering and rope drag (my own fault) and hard some hard moves at the bolts (mid .10) and exciting mantels.
P3 is quite the committing slab with well spaced bolts and a bit of moss/lichen.
P5 was rightfully named, the pro is thin the whole way with unique moves and enough air under your ass to turn you green. Good things there are solid shrubs to sling for bomber pro. Don't run it out at the end like I did or your second is looking at a nasty swing.
The finger crack on P7 is stellar, too bad it's so short.
The tower of bliss is really unique, getting to the arete is a bit runout on a greasy day then the climbing is airy to the top with tricky gear at the crux.
The descent is surprisingly short for an 8 pitcher, although the river bed you're hiking in is full of huge unstable boulders that will roll and try to crush you.
By Beata P
Sep 17, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Climbed this route yesterday. Totally worth doing.

Left behind #4 cam on "puke" pitch. If anyone somehow take it out and will decide to give it back to owner -please contact me.

Still needs more traffic. Trail that takes you there except last bit looks pretty good as long as you know when to start ;)

Loved "puke" pitch and final tower of bliss.
Also agree that P2 felt harder than 5.9 , P5 maybe 9+ (so much fun), P8 not too hard just airy until exciting crux (.10).

Oh and the anchors on last pitch might need some change to be done, tree with the slings around it looks pretty dead.

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