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Mayhem Cove
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Riddler 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a X

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a X [details]
FA: T. Worsfold 1990
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Aug 24, 2002

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Description 

Riddler is the second bolted climb on the diagnol ledge cutting up and left across the left half of Mayhem Cove.As mentioned above, the first bolt is a long way off the ground, but it is pretty easy to reach (though hard to spot)unless your ~5.8 or shorter. In this case its a scary-as-hell clip!From there, pull the roof, continue on some overhanging, and occasionally dirty, climbing until you reach a left-facing block. After pulling the block the climbing all-of-the-sudden turns slabby, runout and mossy. While the overhanging section of the climb kicked ass, this mossy section seemed to be a completely different climb and the source of a lot of rope drag... i honestly didn't finish it.

Protection 

8? bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The first bolt is about 18 feet of the deck, and if you fall before clipping, you will continue to slide, bounce and roll down the precarious ledge from where the climb begins. To save your and your belayer's lives making an anchor is a wonderful idea. Almost any sized cam will do.


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By HarrisonE
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I don't know what the safety of his route was in 2002(when this was posted), but I climbed it the other day and it was perfectly safe, 10 bolts, crux up high after the dihedral crack. Great moves, leading it on trad gear would be cool.
By Bruce McIntosh
May 6, 2013

I agree with harrison (11a with stars). This climb starts to the right of the bush on the diagonal legde mentioned in the description. the first bolt is just off the ground (now). the climb is clean, fun and safe. after pulling over the dihedral to the slab there is two pitons to the left of the bolt. I wonder what those guys who placed them were up to.

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