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Warning: This description includes route beta that will ruin an onsight attempt. Don't be an elitist though, read the description! :)
The book calls this 5.10c but I give it 5.12! I thought it was harder than Aesthetica. Granted, it's nothing like Aesthetica, but I make the comparison because Aesthetica is so close. This route has a 5.10 start up to the first bolt. As you work up to the second bolt there's a horizontal crack where it's highly recommended you place a cam. Then figure out how to get the hold next to the 2nd bolt. This was the crux for me. I'm 5'6" and I absolutely COULD NOT reach that hold, especially using skills a 5.10 climber would need. My 5'11" friend really had to stretch to reach it. This move is very height dependent and leads me to believe Steve Cater is 7' tall. Once you get the hold, move left and mantle up and climb to the ledge. Climb up to clip the third bolt and easier 5.10 or 5.9 climbing gets you to the fourth and 5th bolt. Here's another crux, but this is much easier to figure out. However, I would think it's more like an 11a/b crux than 10c. You need really high feet and no fear of falling. Anyway, once you get the 6th bolt clipped you're home free. Clip the next 2 bolts and you're at the anchor.
This route begins far to the right of Fantasy and Aesthetica, and you have to climb up a 4-5 ft. boulder to get to the base of it when approaching from those climbs. You'll see it before you round the corner, so Aesthetica will still be in sight. It's to the right of The Orgasmatron which has a beautiful splitter in the middle of the face.
8 bolts and a red or yellow alien. For those of you who don't own an alien, yellow is about the same size as a .3 camalot.
From: Wherever we park!
Apr 13, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
As the description above mentions, this is way harder than 10c and pretty heady without a cam. The book says three stars and sustained climbing. Neither of these are true. There are two distinct cruxes both much harder than 10c and the rest of the climbing is pretty easy. The route was pretty dirty and covered in spider webs when I did it.
That said, I still give it a star. The bottom crux is burly but cool and the upper crux is thin and techy. Just don't expect it to feel 10c!
By Clinton Miller
Nov 29, 2015
Fun little puzzle...er...riddle. Use some trad trickery at the horizontal seam and the 10c grade is reasonable.