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Rickety Rock 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Gary Sutherland, and Rob Cobb, 2000
Page Views: 475
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007

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Description 

Someone forgot to tell the FA that these sorts of routes belong in the Solar Cave. If it were in the cave it would receive 4 stars and non-stop traffic, but in its current location it sits more or less ignored, probably due to its relatively chossy appearance.

Begin with surprisingly difficult moves after stick-clipping the first bolt. Above the bolt good crimps lead up the slab to a traverse right into the large dihedral.

Reach left and clip a bolt from a decent stance below the roof, then traverse left, past the rickety rock, which is not a mandatory hold, but probably makes things a bit easier. Traverse back right again to a weird horizontal crack/sloper hold that you're not really sure how to use. Is it a finger lock, is it an undercling, is it a sloper? Do the best you can with this thing then find some great, signature Diablo slopers, and a hidden jug out left. Work your feet over the lip and clip the anchor.

Location 

Immediately left of Class Act, beginnning up a panel of gray stone.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2 Bolt SS quick clip anchor


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By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 20, 2010

This route was established by Rick Bradshaw, Gary Sutherland, and Rob Cobb probably in 2000. We tried in vain to pry the wobbly bugger out after which Rick did the FA and Rob coined the nominal double entendre.

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