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Richter Scale 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: J.E.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,620
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2002

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  • Description 

    This problem is found up (west) of the main Satellites area. Hike up the hill and right of Turning Point until you reach a gully. Follow the gully until you reach a boulder plopped down in the middle of the drainage with an obvious, overhanging arete. The problem sit starts low on bad holds and slaps up the prow to a difficult mantle, straight over the top. The choss rock off to the right is off. To my knowledge has not had a second ascent? Please give beta. Was done as a stand start called Halley's Comet at V7.


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    By j.jaeger
    Nov 24, 2003

    This problem climbs similar to 'Grundel City Boy,' also in the Satellites, but without the meddling rock behind the climber.

    Unfortunately, minutes after the second (or third) ascent, the best starting foot hold blew off. The problem will still go by using a sloping rail under the starting bulge or a very high edge.

    Start at a sit by using one of many slick crimp/pinches just around the corner of the left arete and a very fat sloping pinch out right. Slap hard right to a flat oppositional section with a distinct pebbly sweet spot and work straight up using heel hooks and oppositional edges up the blunt arete. Reaching and squeezing seems mandatory. Once situated on the slab at 8ft., cruise the strangely slick and often dirty upper arete to victory.

    Although the broken foot hold will likely make the very first move more gut-busting and spanned-out, the rest of the problem remains quite fun and worth the effort.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 2, 2004

    This problem is more like V8 and is a choss pile.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Feb 10, 2004

    J, I thought the problem compared in difficulty to the 16 other V10s I have done in CO.
    By Pete Z
    Oct 27, 2010

    Here is some beta we figured for the sds that makes it significantly easier:
    Start with left hand on lowest pinch on left arete, right hand on lowest wide pinch. Feet are crammed into the slot just above the ground. Go with the right hand to the gaston/crimp, hold it and slap the left hand up until you get the left hold for the stand up. Probably V7 for the whole deal with this beta. Fun SDS, but certainly not in the 9 or 10 range....

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