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Mean Mistreater Wall
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Rich and Dave Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Baker and Rich Thompson
Page Views: 2,016
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Sep 2, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Contemplating a spicy move just past the bolt.


This climb is located in the middle of the wall left of the climb Mean Mistreater. The first bolt is up aways and may deter some. The climbing then follows small crack systems and flakes right towards the ledge below a prominent chimney. When we climbed it we found that it was easiest to traverse a bit further right at the end of pitch 1 and just belay at the three bolt anchor of Mean Mistreater. The second pitch ascends the chimeny either in or out. I found the crux of the route getting from the belay to in the chimney. Belay at the top between a small boulder and a small oak. Walk off.


There is one bolt about 15ft. up the beginning slab and the rest can be done with small to medium nuts and Camalots .3- #2

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 25, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 8, 2005

not that great a route. did it today and thought that it kinda sucked. Who knows might change my mind as time goes by.
By Vincent Greene
Jan 1, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I've got to agree with that last comment. Climbed it for the first time today and was not all that impressed. I guess if you like chimneys...
By Jeff Fassett
Jan 12, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Are you kidding? What's not to like, great rock, great exposure and fun climing (try steming the outside of the chimney and staying to the right). There is more to climbing then just simply "pulling down".
By brad schierer
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 9, 2006

I agree with Jeff on this one. Run-out but classic!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 14, 2007

Did it two days ago. Getting to the first bolt is classic old time adventure climbing. Finished on the bolted arete right of the chimney which was cool. Two raps down Mean Mistreater get you down.
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Jun 29, 2010

I have to say that I loved this climb and believe it is a Tucson classic... I know I know I have nothing to say when it comes to "what is what" and no one will respect my opinion but, I really enjoyed leading this climb. From the high first bolt to the chimney I got to inch worm up I felt that it was classic climbing and would love more climbs like it.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 30, 2010

I agree with Derek. Great climb with lots of variety, especially if you do the arete finish. A little spice on the first pitch too!
By David Lammers
From: Grand Junction, CO
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Don't let the first bolt scare you from this fun route. I did not find it to be difficult to reach, besides it could be stick clipped. The rest of the route was easy to protect (no run-outs). I recommend building the second belay station (is is a good location). The bolted finish starts when the chimney ends, it is a great way to end the route, and you can rap back down the wall using the Mean Mistreater anchors.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
May 20, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this yesterday- what a great route! I thoroughly enjoyed the climbing. Stellar rock, good gear, and a nicely exposed 2nd pitch. The crux getting into the chimney was fun too! The arete finish was great. An excellent climb!
By Tradiban
Dec 11, 2012

Great route, lots of different techniques on this one, did it in one pitch to the Mean Mistreater anchors with a 70m.
By Dj telle
From: Tucson, Arizona
Apr 2, 2013

fun route... finished the 2nd pitch through the chimney.. if you arent going for the arete theres a good boulder anchor to belay
By Javier Kenigsberg
Apr 2, 2013

Did the route last Sunday with David (guy above) I agree the route is fun, especially the last part through the narrow chimney. I'm pretty new to climbing and found some sections to be pretty challenging.
Be aware of the lack of anchors directly above the chimney. We had to use the anchors from the route on the right to rappel. There's only one chain and a bolt up there, at least that we could find. They are really close to the edge, so i would recommend carrying some small but long rope (we carried a 6mm x 30ft)to make an anchor before trying to get the rope through the chains for the rappel.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 2, 2013

Or you could follow what the description says and walk back down to your packs. Many of the old trad routes have walk offs.
By jbak
Apr 3, 2013

My thought exactly brick. I figured I'd sound cranky if I said it tho.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 3, 2013

Hope I didn't come off cranky. He said he was new to climbing. I just wanted him to realize reading the descriptions can be helpful before and after climbing a route.
By Javier Kenigsberg
Apr 4, 2013

I know you can walk off this climb, but it will actually take forever when compared to rappelling. Still I guess you are right, the description says to walk off. I just thought it might be useful information for someone else.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Walking off is almost certainly faster than doing 2 rappels, I know my partner who chose to walk down rather than rap beat me to the bottom by a few minutes.
By Karl Groll
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 25, 2015

Really fun done as one long pitch with the right-side arete finish. Used a 70m, not sure if a 60 would reach?

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