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RICE Pudding 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: JWodraska, JBaker, June 2016
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: jbak on Jun 19, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This unusual little route may be the steepest 5.10 on the mountain. 3 overhangs separated by overlaps with full recovery rests mean the climbing is somewhat strenuous but not pumpy.

RICE = Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation... what my climbing buddy/MD recommended for my recently F'ed-up knee.

Location 

Starts on the slab to the right of THE PUB. 3 bolts on the slab get you up to the keeper bolt at the start of the first overhang.

Protection 

11 bolts plus Mussys.

Short QDs are a bad idea on this route...they'll only buy you rope drag. But then short QDs are a bad idea in general.

AND...probably a good idea to CHAIN 2 DRAWS TOGETHER at the keeper bolt (4th bolt...on big block before the steepness starts) to avoid rope drag.


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By JoeS
Jul 12, 2016

Ledges detract some, but the climbing was really fun. Steep and juggy.
By Myk BROWN
From: tucson, az
Sep 5, 2016

Super fun climb. Thought John was dreaming when he rated it 5.10, but I found it much, much easier than Over the Clover, and much more climbing too. Really like the no hands rest before each little roof. Seemed pretty clean, but one of our party did pull off a larger than fist size hold that missed my wife's head by about 6". She kinda wished she would have had a helmet on...
By jbak
Sep 5, 2016

It's worth noting that both Rice Pudding and my new project to the right are deceptively over-hanging. If someone pulls off a hold, people lounging on the ground at the start of the slab ARE IN THE FALL LINE. It doesn't look quite that steep, but it is.

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