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Rhythm Method 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1990s? Bill Coe & partner
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Richard Denker on Sep 17, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first pitch makes for a fun little climb. It is an excellent climb as a warm-up or as the last climb of the day. The second pitch is a different story. If the second pitch was cleaned and a few bolts added it would be a recommended climb. Currently I cannot recommend the second pitch unless you are very bold and skilled at mid-5.10 run out. If cleaned it would probability be 5.9/5.10a R. The R rating could be removed with a few bolts.

P1: Simply follow the bolts for 80’ to a bolt anchor. There are 6 bolts and if you want to supplement the bolts with gear, a few small cams and or small to medium nuts would be more then enough.

P2: From the anchor head up and left to a small notch is the ceiling. Climb through the notch and then head straight up, avoiding the loose moss and loose rock to the anchors.

Descent: If descending from the top of the first pitch a single rope rap will get you to the ground. If rapping from the top of the second pitch you will need two ropes or one 70m rope. From the top anchors rap down and to the right to the top of the first pitch Young Warriors. From that anchor it is about a 110’ rap to the ground.

Location 

Coming from the parking lot on the main trail, there is a trail that branches off right 10 feet before the dog on leash sign. Take this directly to the base, roughly 25' right of the start of Young Warriors

Protection 

Gear: 1st pitch half a dozen quickdraws. The 2nd pitch uses small to medium nuts and cams; do not expect a lot of placements.


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By Billcoe
Dec 29, 2016

Thank you for putting it up Richard. The location you give is wrong. "To the left of Young Warriors is a small buttress and to the left of that is the bolt line which is Rhythm Method."

Reverse that direction. It's just around the corner to the RIGHT of Young Warriors @25 feet or so. About 10' to the right of the shallow corner that designates the Boardwalk start. Coming from the parking lot there is a trail that branches off right direct to it 10 feet before the dog on leash sign on the main trail.

I originally led P1 ground up, no bolts, around 1985 with Jim Opdycke. The first go round went up higher and then traversed over to the Boardwalk anchors. The Boardwalk anchors at that time were higher than they are now, consisting of a single hand drilled bolt tied in with a 3/4" angle piton just below the roof. The bolts on Rythem Method came @ 10 years later on the routes 2nd ascent. But that's a whole nother story:-).

P2+ was Josephs project, I say it's in the 5.10 rangeish.

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