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Rhythm Method 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,387
Submitted By: m-earle on Nov 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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A jug on a 5.12?

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This short and fun tips splitter is on the right hand side of the main face that rock lobster is on. It begins with some technical moves using the two cracks at the start, and then follows the splitter to a two blt anchor. This climb is unusual in the fact that it has foot-holds to work with. Be carfull of loose rock around the anchor

Protection 

green aliens


Photos of Rhythm Method Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux start
The crux start
Rock Climbing Photo: almost to the anchors
almost to the anchors

Comments on Rhythm Method Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonas Wiklund
Dec 12, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I seconded Paco on this route and found it no harder than mid 5.11 with a "cordón umbilical". However: I went back to lead it a few weeks later and took a soft ground fall after having ripped three pieces of shit gear. After that my lead head was shot and I placed a piece of pro every 2 feet, at least, in the soft uninspiring rock. The grade made a bit more sense when pumped from putting in pro everywhere.

Don't use the thin profiled aliens on this route.
By Tank Evans
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I second the feeling of crappy rock, definately bring smaller than green aliens to stich it up.
By JCM
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 18, 2012

Takes some 0 and 00 TCUs, or equivalent. Soft and sandy rock at the start doesn't inspire much confidence in the little cams; sewing it up is definitely justified. Nice moves, though, and probably still worth doing.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Oct 27, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Pretty barn door-ish to place gear down low if you have bigger fingers.

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