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Rhumba of the Toads 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Craig Copelin Late 90's
Page Views: 367
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 1, 2011

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Description 

A moderate start up slightly hollow rock leads to a high first bolt with a bulge above. Good holds allow clipping of the second bolt from below, then enter the crux passing the second bolt. You may find yourself slightly to the right of the bolt line to utilize some good pocket sidepulls. After this commit to traversing left thru some bad holds and some hard matches to obtain jugs to clip the third bolt. After this one more tricky move leads to a good crack system leading to the anchors.

The anchors at this time are just 2 bolt hangers so I clipped the last bolt on "Last Call for Alcohol" and finished to those anchors. This adds a few more feet of climbing but no difficulty.

This was originally graded 11d, mentioned as 12ish in another guide. It certainly felt quite hard for 11d. There is a large rock scar left of the second bolt that my have used to have been some holds possibly explaining the difference in difficulty.

Location 

In between an unknown project and "Last call for Alcohol" on the right side of the cliff.

Protection 

3 Bolts to Anchors. The Anchors are not equipped for cleaning and lowering so I clipped the last bolt of, and finished on "Last Call for Alcohol". If finishing direct the climbing is slightly run out but easy enough not to be much of a concern if you got through the lower moves.


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By Andrew B. Ellis
May 24, 2017

Has been retrobolted at some point. I think it is 5 bolts now. First 3 bolts are pretty straightforward, climb is well protected. Very stiff for the grade after that. It is also possible to lead Last Call for Alcohol, and then trend left to these anchors if you want to work it on toprope.

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