REI Community
West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barrel of Monkeys S 
Bloke On The Side T 
Bridget the Midget T 
Byway T 
Chick on the Side T 
Conversions T,TR 
Court Jester T 
Crazy Stairs T 
Curving Dihedral T 
Dandi-Line T,TR 
Dead Letter Department T 
Drug Abuse T 
Erickson's Finish T 
False Prophet T 
Fever, The T 
Going Postal T 
Good Ship Venus T 
Handcracker Direct T 
Hanging Chad T 
Heat Wave T 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 
Human Factor, The T 
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 
Ignominity T 
Ignore Me T 
Iron Horse T 
Knife, The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Lost in the Netherlands T 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 
Mail Ridge, The T 
Mesca-Line T 
Muscle and Hate T 
Pluto T 
Pony Express T 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 
Practice Climb 101 T 
Practice Wall T 
Prison Sex T 
Pygmy Pony T 
Quick Silver T 
Quicksand T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Reckoning T,S 
Rhombohedral T 
Rope to Ruin T 
Seemingly Innocent T 
Side Wall, The T 
Sister Morphine T,TR 
Sooberb T 
Sooberb Lite T 
Sundial T 
Sword Of Damocles T 
Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Pat Ament and Russ Oberg, 1965
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Sep 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Starting the 3rd pitch....

  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    If you like chimneys and choss, then this is the route for you. There is plentiful loose rock on the first pitch after the wide section, but with careful selection, one can find some relatively solid rock and even some good gear. The second and third pitches have only a little loose rock but not enough to bother the seasoned Eldo climber. Anyway, the pitches:

    P1. Scramble up to a ledge and enter the chimney with a flake in it. I thought the crux was getting established in this chimney. Continue up to a large tree straight above. Our path of least choss took us a bit left at times. Make a belay on the large ledge, 5.8+, 120 feet. (Note that this puts you at the base of Muscle and Hate.=)

    P2. Move the belay about forty feet to the left. Be careful not to dislodge the small, hanging scree field as you walk over to the new belay spot. You'll see a low-angle slab; I made a belay on its left side, but build an anchor wherever you can find gear. Now climb the slab towards a corner with a large tree at the top with rappel slings. Continue past the tree and go up and right to the base of a wide chimney, 5.4, 100 feet.

    P3. The money pitch. Climb the chimney to the top and exit under a natural arch composed of teetering blocks, 5.8, 70 feet.

    For those not well-versed in the art and science of wide-crack and chimney climbing (like me), you may want to take some big gear to feel more comfortable. I used a #5 and #6 Camalot on the first and third pitches.


    This route starts just to the left of Practice Climb 101. It can be identified by a steep chimney that widens after thirty feet to a chossy looking gully. Although there are a variety of trees in the area with slings to facilitate the descent, we opted to scramble to the climber's left up to the Handcracker Direct walk-off and used that to get back to the trail. It's a very quick way to get to the ground from that area.


    Standard Eldo rack plus some wide gear.

    Photos of Rhombohedral Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch classic chimney.
    3rd pitch classic chimney.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out.
    Topping out.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The awesome 3rd pitch.
    The awesome 3rd pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Placing gear on the easy 2nd pitch.
    Placing gear on the easy 2nd pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of the first pitch.  Facing outward seems...
    The crux of the first pitch. Facing outward seems...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch.
    BETA PHOTO: The first pitch.

    Comments on Rhombohedral Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 30, 2010
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    The 3rd pitch is very unique for Eldo, high quality and rare in its type. The first two are detractors from that, which would otherwise be 3 or 4 stars. Still, that 3rd pitch should draw traffic, and can be reached from other routes. It should get done more.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Dec 30, 2010
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    The 3rd pitch and the first 20' of the first pitch are great. The rest is not so good. A #5 and a #6 Camalot were good to have along.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Dec 6, 2015
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    Tunneling through the back side of the P3 chimney down low is another way to do this, but it is a very tight squeeze. Best of luck to the big guys on that!

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About