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Rhode Island Red 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,403
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Happy to be yarding on a jug after Red's thin star...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


This route is on Hen and Chicken Rock, a 100 foot high, satellite crag that rests at the SE corner of the East Owl.

Take the appraoch trail that branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake Trail; it leads directly to the buttress' base. Identify a large, clean left-facing corner (Cackle Crack). Rhode Island Red starts in a thin seam on the arete right of the corner (scary crux, RPs), then follows a good 5.9 hand crack across the wall to merge with Cackle Crack at the top of the corner.


Rack to a #3 Friend; bring RPs for the start.

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By Chris Fisher
Oct 19, 2002

I followed on this one a few days ago and found the 5.10 start to be a bit easy while the 5.9 crack above was pumpy. The start is not well protected and may warrant a ground spot.
By Nate A
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 16, 2003

You can place a great small stopper from a good stance just off the ground.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I found the start tyo be a little hard and slippery. Then again, I'm not a Lumpy local or that much of a regular.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2008

Hard start but you can get a couple RP's before you commit.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If you're tall, a very secure looking cam can be placed before making the crux moves up/around the arete. All in all, a decent climb for the area.
By John Maurer
From: Denver, CO
Jul 22, 2013

A yellow TCU fits perfectly in a small slot, below the lieback flake, and makes the opening moves very well-protected.

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