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Rhett Wench 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: P1: Mabe and Stiller, P2: Mabe / Bernal, 4/05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,795
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on May 18, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: South Creek Side Wall: F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p. ...

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Rhett Wench starts to the left of the tyrol belay pod on the south facing wall at Creek Side. The big-ass Brennivin Roof is to the left. Approach by tyrol (see area description comments under Creek Side), and then yard on the fixed(!) handline 15' left to the belay 'scoop'.

Mr. Rhett Wench climbs the left black slab, grey shield, capped by two roofs.

P1. Cruise past 6 clips (5.5) to 3 bolt belay anchor on a ramp.

P2. Lieback up the crack and mantle to a quick rest stance (.11-). Continue up the steep and devious face sequence (crux), traversing right to the handrail, then back left on the handrail, brief slab moves and up to the roofs. Finger traverse out the right side of the first roof (.11-), blind-clip a bolt, and pull over to another rest below the bigger overhang. Clip the bolt in the overhang, and enjoy the gymnastic movement to the anchors (.10). 12 bolts. Lower 90' back to the belay. Rap P1, and reverse your way back to the pod, and tyrol.

Very cool and technical climb, great exposure.


P1: 6 bolts, P2: 12 bolts, rap anchors. Bring some runners to alleviate rope drag on P2. I equipped both pitches on lead, with mix of free/aid on rope-solo for P2.

Photos of Rhett Wench Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Rhett-Wench, the crux is at 4th bolt ...
BETA PHOTO: The start of Rhett-Wench, the crux is at 4th bolt ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The rope marks the route.
BETA PHOTO: The rope marks the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon enjoying nice sunny March day for shorts.
Jon enjoying nice sunny March day for shorts.

Comments on Rhett Wench Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Ferguson
Jul 21, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great route. Darren, Nice work putting this climb up. The 2 roofs are really great. Regarding the face sequence that you say is the 11+ crux, I found that if you climb just right of the bolt it feels a bit easier. I tried to climb straight above the bolt in 90+ degree weather and greased of the micro holds. I then went a foot or 2 right and found better holds. Anyways, nice work.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
May 18, 2009

I found going right made life easier also. I wondered if that was the intended way. If it is, the 2 finger pocket that's all chalked up is a bit deceiving.
Great route, the roofs were fun! I have to come back and get it clean.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 18, 2009

That is correct. Since I bolted this on lead, I didn't know where to go until I got there, but that is the way I went too when I stepped out of my aiders. That bit of route finding gives the crux some character. Glad you liked it.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
May 28, 2009

Nice job drilling on lead! I did skip a bolt or two (in the roofs if I remember correctly), mostly from being pumped and not seeing the easy clipping stance (I need to get better at hanging from an arm and a leg and clipping)
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 28, 2009

You might be talking about the last bolt over the final roof!? I drilled that sucker off a teetering hook and left heelhook, lol.

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