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Rheen's Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Rich and Reen Thompson 1974
Page Views: 2,192
Submitted By: shad on Mar 30, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: The last rappel down after climbing Rheens arête.


Start atop the same boulder as for beeline. Work up the face to the right of beeline to the right facing corner about 15-20 feet off the deck. Balance up and place some gear in this thin crack. Commit to the arete and clip the 1974 1/4 inch buttonhead. paddle up the slab to a dish where you can coax a chickenhead into being slung. In my humble opinion this is pretty serious climbing, although Kerry's book doesnt make it seem to be. THis felt to be the crux, and i would call it 5.8, but call it 5.7 if you want. Follow the glorious arete up to join beeline at the easy hand crack below the anchor. Breathe deeply as you clip into two good bolts about 190' from the start. If you want to rap, i guess you can, but the sceond pitch is worth it and not so hard. It is a wee bit run out (or maybe more so). Climb up through easy chicken heads and angle slightly left. Paddle on clipping a bolt, then up to the horizontal fracture with good gear (#3). paddle to the top. Rap chains are atop the second pitch- im not sure what the best way to get down is, we ended up rapping around the corner to the chains atop the 5.7 chimney climbs, which worked.


single set of nuts and cams to # 3 camalot, plus quite a few slings for tying off chicken heads.

Photos of Rheen's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanna coming up the arete. Yeah, it's runout, but ...
Hanna coming up the arete. Yeah, it's runout, but ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper section of Rheen's arete
Upper section of Rheen's arete
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark, just about to clip the bolt on the first pit...
Mark, just about to clip the bolt on the first pit...

Comments on Rheen's Arete Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Feb 26, 2004

I think there's a good case for a 5.8 raing here. Also, don't be like me and skip the corner. Going to the arete too soon is more than a little scary. You probably want the gear you can get in the crack before you commit to moving onto the face past that buttonhead. Fun climbing but I had to change my drawers.
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

It's a shame that, with all the new steel that's been installed in the Stronghold, this crucial rusty buttonhead with a sheet metal (Leeper?) hanger has been ignored for so long. Even after clipping it, I felt like I was in groundfall territory for a long time afterwards.
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

There's a bolted line just to climber's right of Rheen's 'Rete. From the shared P1 anchor of Beeline/Rheen's, you can see a 2 bolt anchor about 40 feet below. There's a second rap anchor somewhere below that (visible from the ground). I talked w/ two ABQ guys who said they'd done that bolted route (~5.10), and rapped it with one rope. So it seems likely that you could also get down to that rap line from the Beeline/Rheen's P1 anchor with one rope (?).
But, topping out is more fun....
By David Baltz
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Nov 30, 2009

Rheen's 'Rete is very nice. I didn't find the 'R' rating and found good pro at least every 20 ft. From the bottom of the arete you can reach the short dihedral and get a couple of good pieces in. If you know how to cinch a runner on a chickenhead, the upper section protects also.

We also did the bolted line to the right of Rheen's Arete. Don't know what it's called, but it's a fine route (probably 10b) and quite steep in the crack start. The first pitch is mostly trad pro is 100 ft and ends at a two bolt belay (but only one rap hanger). Pitch two is beautiful 5.9 face for another 80 feet to chain anchors. We didn't do the third pitch but it looked to be more nice face at about 5.7 or so.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Oct 24, 2012

The buttonhead needs to be chopped and replaced. Absurd to have such a useless bolt on such a cool climb given how far the runout is above it.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Mar 3, 2015

Great position and exposure and a pretty serious climb. I found some gear at the base of the arete but was unable to get over to the small crack in a corner to get a piece before the button head....i wouldn't even trust this for body weight....this is old rusted and shouldn't be trusted....I enjoyed the runout because the climbing is within my ability but falling at any point on the arete would be catastrophic. You can rap from the shared anchor (beeline) with a single 70 if you angle climbers left and downclimb about 15' from a tree in the corner left of beeline. Otherwise, topout and rap further to the left with one rope.

wish i had a personal photographer. there is a great opp for an amazing shot if a third party frames the photo so beelines roof is in the background.
By Joe Brophy
From: San Diego
Dec 14, 2015

Fun route as long as you are not leading at your limit. I plan on replacing the old bolt this coming Feb. I will also replace the old SMC anchors at the top of the first pitch. I will post up after I do this so you know you will have a new bolt waiting for you. Thanks to the FA people for putting this line up. Good fun.

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