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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: M. Brooks, J. Martin, 1982
Page Views: 1,033
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 4, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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The son of Zeus!

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  • Description 

    This is an overlooked route. I really enjoyed it and it was different and out of character for Eldo. The black corner here is not "dirty" it's in fact a hard patina!

    This route lies in the obscure Kashmir area. It is best found by passing the Cirque of the Cracks, landmarking via the last obvious corner, "The Formula" (fixed pins and a fixed wire) continue up the hill and right to an obvious black corner with a steep "tips" crack section 7 meters up.

    Climb the corner on good holds and good moves with good gear (small Aliens or similar), passing the 5.10a crux to a good rest before finishing on decent jams and larger gear.

    Finish up and right to a huge tree with a sling and ring (just replaced). Rap to descend.


    A standard light rack with some 0.3-0.75" cams. You get overhead pro for the crux sequence, finished with the pro at knee level. It can be sewn up if desired. (Edit to add): some people say that the gear might pull. I was not too worried about this, but it apparently happened to someone. Read the comments below.

    Photos of Rhadamanthus Slideshow Add Photo
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    Comments on Rhadamanthus Add Comment
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    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Dec 3, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    This climb looks junky, but it actually has good moves. It is worth doing once for sure.
    By Sarah Meiser
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Aug 24, 2012

    BEWARE THIS IS NOT A G RATED CLIMB! Sure, you can "sew it up" before pulling the crux moves, BUT even though the placements may look good, they're not necessarily going to hold a fall. My partner took an 18 foot groundfall when all 3 pieces he placed up there blew from a minor slip at the crux. A somewhat blindly placed nut in the crack at the top of the small roof and a small, purple Metolius cam that looked like a textbook placement blew immediately from the 1-2 foot fall (these pieces were at chest/stomach level, the nut may have slipped out from the top as he was pulling the moves?, not sure what happened with the cam). Then a blue Alien in the good crack about 5 feet below only held for a fraction of a second before blowing as well. From the looks of that piece, we suspect the rock failed, not the cam. Miraculously my partner was OK after landing on a rock on his head at the base of the climb. His helmet saved his life no doubt. Very lucky.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Apr 28, 2013

    Consider Sarah's comments before launching off, but I thought this climb offered quite good protection. Really fun! The final few feet was all loose rock and steep duff. Barely worth noting, though, since that's the norm for all the Kashmir-area pitches.
    By Ed Krejcik
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Oct 31, 2016
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I have to agree with Clint's comments. I did this route after reading the comments here. Personally, I found the pro to be bomber. I had a yellow (#3?) Metolius Mastercam at the start of the tips crack and a blindly placed yellow C3 further out. I did not fall though, so the pro was not fulled tested, but it did give them a tug. The crack edge is sharp all the way up, which makes for very positive holds. Climb is in a cramped, dirty setting, but it is worth doing as there won't be a line.

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