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Rex TR 


YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rob Pilaczynski 7/16/16
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 281
Submitted By: Rob P. on Jul 18, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The line


The T-rex is a wild ride! Start in the kind of chossy corner underneath the roofs. Big move up and left into the rail on the arête. Find a sequence of crimps up higher to move right and set up for the crux, a (for me) dynamic foot-cutting throw to a compression arête above the 2nd roof. From here, move up to an amazing pinch on the lip of a roof and a small crimp and get established into a knee-bar to help pull over the upper roof/crux. A few more feet of easier climbing to the top.


Tricky top rope set up. Long slings and thoughtful/careful master-point placement required! There's a key re-direct piece below and right of the final roof that helps control swings if you fall off and a possible lower re--direct piece can protect the opening moves. PM me for more specific anchor beta if interested. Would be X-rated lead.

Photos of Rex Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the crux holds.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on the crux holds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Side profile of the Rex
Side profile of the Rex

Comments on Rex Add Comment
Show which comments
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 20, 2016

Nice send, Rob!! I looked at that thing about 12 years ago and couldn't see a path. Way to work it!!
By BryanE
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 31, 2016

Nice work Rob!
By Jon Marek
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Oct 5, 2016

Woot woot! Nice work.

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