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Rex Rock
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Rex S 

Rex 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Rigney & Brad Singer, 1992, FFA: Dave LePere, October 2000
Page Views: 16
Submitted By: C Miller on Sep 8, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Rex (5.12c), Keller Peak

Description 

Orignally done as a 5.11 A0 route this route was later freed and named after Dave's dog which seems appropriate as you need to tap the animal inside to succeed on this technical line.

Easy moves gain the first bolt and then it's on as you negotiate the super thin crimps and sparse feet of the barely vertical crux which is more like a V5 boulder problem. Once past the crux the difficulty eases and it's no harder than 5.11 to the top.

A decent route but it's a brief crux, the rock is not the best and it's sorely lacking in continuity which merits it a star at best.

Location 

Just off the road on the west side of the formation. A minor bushwhack may be necessary to access the base of the route.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap


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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 12, 2015

Ah...great story regarding the origin of the route's name and digging deep to harness the inner beast to succeed. I love it when climber's name routes after their dogs (eg. Casey at the Bat, Sasha, Poodles Are People Too). RIP, Rex.