|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jaysen Henderson on Jul 21, 2011|
|Comments on Revolver||Add Comment|
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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the adk rock guide they say heading right is easier. The lip seemed stout hitting it directly and the right is fun, so it begs the question why anyone would want to head up the lip at the second bolt directly. With the right side ascent this eases the grade to maybe 10a, and with the rest of the route being closer to 5.8 I think it actually increases the overall experience of the climb (instead of one uber hard move in the middle of moderate climbing).
After pulling the first moves to the first bolt, you can step left a few feet to a good crack that's 5.8 if you don't want to do the 5.10 moves. Once about 15 feet up to a ledge, step right to rejoin the original bolted line to the top anchor. The top is tough for 5.8 but doable with some good jamming technique.