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Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Tim Kemple
Page Views: 1,552
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Mar 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Revolution


A one move wonder. Sit start with a crimp/gaston for your left hand and a small but good flake for your right. The feet are decent, but once you pull off the ground, dyno with every bit of energy you can find (steal it from other people if you need to) and latch a crimp somewhere around 7' up. Using another crimp and a jug up and left, topout through the groove.


On the other big boulder across from Terrorist, this problem climbs/dynos out the side closest to the trail. Get friends to stack pads so you can jump off, or climb down the large tree.



Photos of Revolution Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The starting holds to Revolution
BETA PHOTO: The starting holds to Revolution

Comments on Revolution Add Comment
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By Lanky
From: Tired
Dec 21, 2009

I sort of thought that this started one move lower than the description indicates. It's definitely possible to start matched on the low flake.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Nov 10, 2015

So does this route have a different finish from Evolution or is it the same top out as the v6?
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 11, 2015

It finishes straight up into the slabby dihedral, following the path of least resistance.
By Graham O.
Sep 3, 2016

Does anyone have any info on that rightward leaning blunt arete that starts just to the left of this? I saw chalk on the starting crimps last time I was out and it looked kinda cool. It starts on decent crimps and uses ripples on both sides of the arete and traverses right until the start of Evolution and finishes up that route. Obviously it is way out of my grade range, but I would love to hear about the history/suggested grade.

Btw, on Tim's F.A of Revolution, he suggested v8/v9! :)
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Sep 3, 2016

Graham, that arête to the left of this is an unnamed v10. I agree it does look pretty cool and maybe better than revolution, definitely deserves more attention than it gets.

Also my friend recently cleaned the heck out of the top out for this line. Brett Meyers did this in one move, he would go straight up to the crimp on the lip and catch it in a full crimp.
By Graham O.
Sep 17, 2016

Cool thanks for the info! That beta is not human!

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