REI Community
Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
- 
Ain't No Puppy T 
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 
Big Dogs Variation T,S 
Deodorant T,S 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
Independent Worm Saloon T 
Rat Crack Direct T 
Revocation T 
Skin Tollbooth, The 
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 
Turd Burglar 
Walking on Paper T 
White Shores T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Revocation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: M. Frichette & D. Hare (?) 1970s (?)
Season: Gets afternoon sunshine
Page Views: 631
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Cutting a little bit left is the way to go.

Description 

A route that has some great climbing but is too broken up to be a great line overall. Still, it is worth doing. Find the upper half of the climb as decribed in the "location" text. The anchors are at the ledge above the arate and handcrack, to trace the line downward, look to the pointed flake below the roof, following a horizontal down and left to a right leaning dihedral and to the base of the corner, on a large ledge that is accessed via a 30-foot traverse from the ground/trail.

From the trail walk out and left on the ledge, which is flat, but as you go left the ground falls away below... the ledge ends at a pair of corners, 'Revocation' is the cleaner corner on the right, and 'Ain't No Puppy' is the wider line on the [left] with the remnants of a bush in it. Set a belay of a large stopper and a 1st-knuckle-sized cam on the end of the ledge at the corner.

Climb up and right into the steep corner, getting a small cam or two and then doing 5.9 moves to reach a series of hand jams. Continue up and right under a curving overhang (5.8). You will reach a roof with a crack going out right. Hand traverse in the crack out right with gear (5.8-) or foot traverse lower without gear (5.5) to reach a broad slot below the roof mentioned in the "Location" instructions and the crack piercing it. With hands on either side, work up into a stem and moantle and climb the crack for a few moves (get good gear!) of 5.9+ until the crack becomes too awkward, then reach for incuts on the left face and make a few final moves to reach a ledge (5.8) with bolted anchors with webbing and a steel ring. The anchor was refurbished on 4/3/09.

There is a second pitch going up and left through cracks in a left-facing corner system, (5.9 at Bulge, then lower angle 5.7) and on to the top and walk off, or rap ~90' to the ground. A 60m rope reaches easily, 50m is questionable.

Location 

About halfway up the South face of Sweat Loaf, there is a hanging arete 70' off the ground, capping a large roof. On the right there are a few bolts on "Black Ramp (9+)" and on the left there is a handcrack slitting the face from the roof upward, which is the upper portion of "Revocation (9+)."

Protection 

A standard rack, from small to 3 inches. Long slings are useful to keep the drag down on this somewhat wondering line.


Photos of Revocation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hard move getting into the good finger crack.
Hard move getting into the good finger crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lew, making it look easy.
Lew, making it look easy.

Comments on Revocation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Nov 15, 2011

I think Tony meant to say Ain't no Puppy is the wider line on the left. In any case, this is a worthy pitch (didn't do the upper pitch due to the later hour).

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About