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Reversal Roof 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Sport, Boulder, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Dan Levison
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,823
Submitted By: Dan Levison on Apr 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Reversal Roof.

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  • Description 

    Reversal Roof climbs more like a boulder problem than a route. Three kneebars and a couple deadpoints will get you to the lip and over the large roof. Depending on your beta and how the climb "fits" you it may seem easier (or harder) than V7 (13a). Some crumbly rock at the start so pre-clipping is recommended for safety. Start slightly right of the bolts and work through the overhangs, pulling through the roof at the second bolt.

    Location 

    The left side of the large roof system just down the trail from Free Willie.

    Protection 

    3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor; lower off or linkup with "Nice To Be Here" (11a/b) on the headwall above for a 75 foot route.


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    Comments on Reversal Roof Add Comment
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    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 27, 2008
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c  V7-8 7B

    V7 sounds about right. I climbed it completely to the right of the bolts. No kneebars, but some great toe hook/ heel hook, followed by a wicked mantel.
    By Skyler B
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Mar 21, 2015

    Interesting kneebar beta to (as said above) a wicked mantel. Not really worth the effort in my opinion.
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Apr 8, 2017

    I think if this route was a boulder problem people would love it and call it V5 or V6; as a route it feels kinda weird and silly. I dunno, still enjoyed it though.

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